Huge colorful boats fill the narrow Xochimilco canals. The trajineras, as they are known, carry flowers, travel souvenirs and mariachis who, with their powerful voices, make traditional Mexican songs resonate through the branches of the river. Each of them is given a name: Alejandra, Paola, Valentina, and are painted in vibrant shades of blue, red and yellow, creating a scene worthy of a postcard.
Anyone who unsuspectingly boards one of these boats will hardly guess that the trajineras of Xochimilco have their origins in pre-Hispanic traditions. Well before the arrival of the Spanish rulers, the capital of the Mexicas – the people who commanded the Aztec Empire – and which we now know as Mexico City, was built on an island in the center of a series of lakes interconnected by bridges that served, at the same time, , as an access route and defense mechanism against invaders who tried to reach the political center of the Empire.
On the banks of these lakes, the original people developed an intensive agricultural system that consisted of planting vegetables and flowers on pieces of land placed on the roots of Ahuejote trees, which are endemic to the region and always grow on the banks of rivers and lakes. These blocks of land were known as chinampas. Over time, chinampas began to occupy a large part of the flooded area, changing the layout of the watercourses.
You already know the rest: the Spanish arrived, urban growth, globalization and today the canals of Xochimilco are the last remnant of this form of production. The region was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, in an attempt to protect it from the fierce expansion of the metropolis. It is still possible to see chinampas on its banks and many of them are still used to plant flowers and fruits.
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Trajineras were only introduced at the beginning of the 20th century, when the place underwent reforestation of the Bosque Nativitas and piers were built along the canals, with the intention of taking advantage of the region’s tourist potential. Today, Xochimilco is full of colorful boats that ply the river every day. The one-hour tour costs between 300 and 500 pesos (between R$60 and R$100) per boat. Along the canals, there are people passing by selling snacks and souvenirs and even boats bringing mariachis right next to you – they can sing the song you choose for 150 pesos (R$30).
The most interesting thing is that, unlike other boat trips I’ve taken there, Xochimilco’s trajineras are not restricted to foreign tourists. Families and groups of friends in Mexico City rent boats for special occasions, such as birthdays and weddings, and party while strolling along the canals. Some of them even hire Mariachi groups to liven up the meeting. On Friday afternoons, it is also common to see groups of university students celebrating happy hour with cheap alcohol and reggaeton.
Tour in the Trajineras of Xochimilco – Practical information
How to get: Xochimilco is located in a region far from Mexico City’s central attractions and the journey there can take more than an hour. The easiest way is to take the metro to Taxqueña station. From there, fast trains leave towards Embarcadero. Get off at the final station and take a taxi or follow the signs that guide you towards the pier. The neighborhood’s streets are full of life and safe to walk and the walk takes around 20 minutes.
How to hire: We took the tour with Vero, from the company Mi Lindo Xochimilco. The full price is 500 pesos per hour, but if you book in advance it costs 300. It is also possible to rent trajineras for an entire afternoon. In this case, you need to negotiate the price. You can contact her via the Facebook page linked above.
Smart Tips: On the pier there are several stalls selling food and drinks. It’s a good idea to buy something there for a picnic on the boats. The typical food of Xochimilco is carnita, served with the ubiquitous corn tortilla, but there is also quesadilla, roast chicken, rice with mole and other Mexican delicacies to suit the customer’s taste. Another good idea is to combine the tour with a visit to the Frida Khalo Museum, as they are on the same side of the city (but not exactly close).
