“We can’t go on. It’s all ice.” Guide Ricardo’s warning forced us to turn around and descend the snowy mountain that, in zigzags, we had tried to overcome for an hour. Although we were using snowshoes and shoes to walk in the snow, we were not prepared to face a completely frozen section of the climb. That trek had started a few hours before and without a defined objective – the idea was to get as far as possible, preferably somewhere with a view of the many volcanoes of the Malalcahuello National Reserve.
Located 870 km south of Santiago and around 130 km from Temuco, the city where the nearest airport is located, this environmental reserve is best known outside Chile for its sport. There are almost 30 ski slopes in Corralco, one of the newest Chilean resorts, which attract visitors of various nationalities year after year. And although skiing down the volcano, with the not-so-sleeping Lonquimay as a witness, is quite an activity, the region also has attractions for those who don’t feel comfortable with skis on their feet.
Hiking – in the snow or not, depending on the season – are some of them. One of the smallest trails starts just outside the ski resort and leads to the Araucaria Milenar, a tree that, according to our guide, is 15 centuries old.
Tree symbol of Chile and considered sacred by the Mapuche people, who live in the center-south of the country and also in Argentina, the araucaria can live for millennia and resists negative temperatures well. They are what make this part of Chile different: the snow covers the branches of the araucaria trees, forming a beautiful winter scene. Chile is divided into 15 regions, or states, and this entire area was named precisely in honor of the tree: it is the La Araucanía region.
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More trails
Going to the top of Lonquimay, the area’s main volcano, at 2865 meters and which last erupted in the late 1980s, is another full day trip. In general, this trail also passes through the Navidad Crater, a point below the peak that erupted the last time the volcano woke up, when the volcanic material was unable to exit the top and ended up forming this satellite crater. The name reminds us that this occurred at Christmas 1988.
The more sedentary can try to reach the Mirador de los Volcanes, from where you can see other peaks in the region. Some of these hikes are only possible in spring and summer, when the scenery changes completely. Others are more interesting with the snowy winter landscape. There are also trails to Piedra Colorada, Sierra Nevada (an extinct volcano) and Laguna Pehuenco.
Hot Springs
Hot springs at every turn. After the snow, this is the region’s biggest attraction – the thermal baths attract tourists from all over the world and are very popular with Chileans in the month of July. The structure and price vary according to the location – there are spas for all tastes (and budgets). On the Malalcahuello tourism website you will find a list of the main spas in the area.
Match with…
A nearby area that can be combined with the Malalcahuello National Reserve is the city of Pucón and its surroundings, where there are also hot springs, volcanoes, a ski resort and the Huilo Huilo Biological Reserve. It is another interesting destination for those who enjoy hiking and adventure sports. Pucón is 210 km from Malalcahuello and less than 100 from Temuco, the airport city.
How to get to Malalcahuello National Reserve
The nearest airport is Temuco, which has four daily flights to Santiago, from LATAM and Sky Airline. From there, you can hire a transfer, take a taxi or even rent a car. If you choose the latter option, read the text on how to rent vehicles abroad.
Furthermore, it is good to keep in mind that driving in winter involves certain techniques – at times it is necessary to put chains on the wheels to be able to move forward on icy roads. If you don’t have experience, it might be best to avoid driving and just enjoy the scenery, which is beautiful. 
Private transfers have the advantage of comfort, but on the other hand they are expensive – expect to spend around 100 dollars per person. In general, you can arrange the service directly with your hotel at the time of booking. If you want to pay less, an alternative is to go to the center of Temuco and from there take a bus to Malalcahuello. Speaking of buses, another option for budget travelers is to travel between Santiago and the Malalcahuello National Reserve by land. Details here.
Where to stay in Malalcahuello
The most popular accommodation options are cabins – types of chalets. There are cabins of the most varied types, from luxurious to simpler ones with a homestay feel. Many of them work in the back of cafes or restaurants. Booking lists some options like this, but make sure you stay close to the reservation entrance.
Another alternative is to look for inns at the region’s many spas, such as the Malalcahuello Thermal Hotel & Spa. The most comfortable – and obviously more expensive – option is to stay within the ski resort, at the Valle Corralco Hotel & Spa, which works with full board (but without drinks) and half board. Some packages already include a mountain pass, a good option for those who want to ski.
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