Around the year 500 BC. C., the Zapotec people began the construction of a large ceremonial and military city. The project was only completed in 850 AD and, high in the hills of the Oaxaca region, Monte Albán reigned for many, many years. Main political, economic and religious center of the Oaxaca Valley, the capital of the Zapotec empire is the oldest pre-Columbian city found in Mexico and Central America and, it is said, at its peak it had 35 thousand inhabitants within its limits, which were as large as the current capital, Oaxaca. Inside, large squares, imposing pyramids, underground passages, a complex rainwater system, ceremonial centers and sports fields were built for the practice of Tlachtli, a ritualistic Mesoamerican ball game.
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The city is surrounded by mountains that, in the past, were strategic for defense and, today, are strategic for enjoying the views that unfold around them. When the Zapotecs abandoned the site, centuries after its construction, the Mixtecs occupied the place and created a huge cemetery. The tombs placed there are considered some of the most elaborate in the entire American continent. Precious stones, jewels and ceremonial pieces of gold and other metals were buried in them, a treasure that remained hidden until the 20th century. When, in the 1930s, excavation and restoration work began on the ruins of Monte Albán.
The city also received a notable influence from the Teotihuacanos, who, due to their power, influenced architecture, ceramics and painting. People who, it is believed, also controlled the region for a while.
It was the Spanish who named the city as we know it today. They say that, upon arriving in the Oaxaca Valley, one spring, the trees at the top of the mountains bloomed white and gave the impression that they were covered in snow. For the first inhabitants there, however, the place was known as “Sacred Mountain”.
One of the oldest and most prominent buildings is the Templo de los Danzantes (Building L). The place was like a ceremonial center for the first inhabitants. It is still possible to see ancient markings from the Zapotec calendar and anthropomorphic figures on the large stones displayed on its walls.
In Building J, the Tombstone of the Conquest narrates, through figures, the battles and triumphs of Monte Albán over the neighboring peoples. Just like in Teotihuacan, Tajín and many Mesoamerican cities, it is still possible to see the ruins of the field of the ancient game that involved passing a heavy rubber ball through a small hoop. To do this, athletes used their hips, elbows or knees. The winners of the games received a privilege: to be a sacrifice to the gods.
How to visit the Archaeological Zone of Monte Albán
How to get: Monte Albán is just 10 km from Oaxaca. The most practical, flexible and expensive way to get to Mont Albán is by taking a taxi from the center, which should cost around 300 pesos (R$60). There are buses operated by the company Lescas Co that leave every hour in front of the Hotel Rivera de Angel (Calle Mina, 518) for 70 pesos (R$ 15, round trip). When you arrive at the hotel, just ask for the bus to Monte Albán. The ticket can be purchased directly from the driver or at a small agency at the bus departure point.
Several tourism agencies in Oaxaca offer tours that include visits to Monte Albán and other nearby places. Tours can vary between $150 and $300 pesos (entrance fees to attractions separately). The advantage is that they pick you up and drop you off at your hotel and the visit includes a guide. The disadvantage is that the tour is limited and dependent on the schedules stipulated by the agency.
Visit: The Monte Albán Archaeological Zone is open every day, from 8am to 5pm. Entrance costs 70 pesos (R$15) and includes a visit to the museum. It is on sale at the box office and can be purchased on the spot. The tour lasts on average two hours.
Smart Tips: Be sure to bring sunscreen, a hat and lots of water. Even in winter, the sun is strong during the day, so prefer to visit Monte Albán in the morning. Wear comfortable clothes and shoes, as the tour consists of walking and climbing the narrow stairs to the top of the pyramids. Go up at least the north and south platforms to get a panoramic view of the place. If you can, hire a guide at the entrance to the complex. They don’t charge too much (around 100 pesos per person, or R$20) and add a lot of value to the visit. There is a small drinks and snacks shop right at the entrance to the complex.
