If I could choose a house in the world to live in, I would choose La Chascona, by Pablo Neruda, in Santiago. Not that my life dream was to live in Chile, but, without a doubt, La Chascona is the home of my dreams.
Pablo Neruda considered himself a builder: he constructed poems. And it seems he thought of his homes that way too. That’s what the Chilean guide who accompanied us on the visit to the house I mentioned told me. In addition to it, the poet had the house La Sebastiana, which is located in Valparaíso. The Isla Negra house is not on an island, but close to the Pacific Ocean. This last one was the poet’s favorite and, unfortunately, the only one I didn’t know.
But, back to Neruda… I wish I had the money, space, talent and creativity to build and decorate such impressive, detailed and inspired houses. And look, I don’t even know much about Neruda’s work (total shame on me). However, I was able to learn a little about the author’s personality during the guided tour of two of his former properties, which are now museums and hold part of his legacy.
Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside the houses. The internal photos of the houses in this post are from the Neruda Foundation’s official website.
La Chascona
This house was built in 1953. The name means disheveled (maybe that’s why I identified so much) and it was made for Neruda’s lover, Matilde. After he separated from his wife, the author went to live in this house with her. The house is at the foot of Cerro San Cristóbal, in a region where, at the time, a small stream flowed, now filled in.
The house was made like a ship in one part, even with the roof lower, to simulate the interior of a vessel. It is divided into three parts, all containing personal objects and very original decorative items that Neruda collected throughout his travels around the world, as well as his personal library.
The house was somewhat destroyed during the military coup in 1973. Some things were stolen, but the building was restored. In addition to being a museum, La Chascona is also the headquarters of the Pablo Neruda Foundation.
See too: Where to stay in Santiago – the best neighborhoods
Photo by the Neruda Foundation
Address: Fernando Márquez de la Plata 0192, Barrio Bellavista, Providencia, Santiago.
How much does it cost: 7,000 pesos per person and 2,500 for students and seniors (all visits are accompanied by a guide).
When to go: Closed every Monday and open from 10am to 6pm on all other days. In January and February, it opens until 7pm.
You can take a virtual visit here.
La Sebastiana
La Sebastiana is all sea facing, with four floors and huge glass windows. It has the external shape of a boat. It is in Valparaíso and was inaugurated in 1961, in a legendary celebration. Only the third and fourth floor belonged to Pablo, as he bought the house together with a couple of sculptor friends. The name La Sebastiana was Neruda’s tribute to the builder and first resident of the house, Don Sebastian.
The house served as a refuge for Neruda when he grew tired of Santiago. The view is truly breathtaking – it gives the feeling that you are on a ship, at the edge of the sea – as is the fun and unusual decoration that is carefully spread throughout the venue.
There the poet, who was very fond of parties, held the best meetings known at the time. A fact that can be observed in the bar set up in La Sebastiana. Neruda also spent New Year’s Eve parties there, due to the privileged view of the fireworks display in the port of Valparaíso.
Photo by the Neruda Foundation
Address: Cerro Bellavista, Ferrari 692, Valparaíso.
How much does it cost: 7,000 pesos per person and 2,500 for students and seniors (all visits are accompanied by a guide or audio guide).
When to go:Closed every Monday and open from 10am to 6pm on all other days. In January and February, it opens until 7pm.
Isla Negra
Photo by the Neruda Foundation
I didn’t have the opportunity to go to that house. Like the others, it brings together objects that tell the story of the poet and the time in which he lived. This house is shaped like a train. See our full post about the visit to the Isla Negra house.
Address: Poet Neruda s/n, Isla Negra, El Quisco.
How much does it cost: 7,000 pesos per person and 2,500 for students and seniors (all visits are accompanied by a guide).
When to go: Closed every Monday and open from 10am to 6pm on all other days. In January and February, it opens until 8pm.
***
Are you going to travel? Travel Insurance is mandatory in dozens of countries and essential for any trip. Don’t be left unprotected in Thailand. See how to get the best cost/benefit insurance with our discount code.
