If you’ve never heard of Barreirinhas, you can be sure you know what makes this city famous all over the world: Lençóis Maranhenses. But, after all, what is there to do in Barreirinhas?
One of those destinations that has already entered the national collective imagination, the sheets are close to Barreirinhas, which is the main gateway to the National Park. A park that is bigger than the city of São Paulo.
I knew little about Barreirinhas when I planned a trip there. And I was surprised. I expected to find the extraordinary beauty of Lençóis Maranhenses, of course, but I didn’t know that the city that serves as a base for exploring the region has other attractions, which easily make up a week’s worth of travel.
Are you going to pass through Maranhão? See below what to do in Barreirinhas. Starting with the obvious.
When to go to Barreirinhas?
If you want to see the lagoons at their fullest level, the ideal is to visit between May and August, which is right after the rainy season. This period of the year is considered high season.
However, if you prefer to avoid large crowds and don’t mind the ponds being a little emptier, the months of September to December can be a good option. During these months, the climate is drier and hotter, and it is still possible to find some lakes with water.
How long to stay in Barreirinhas?
The ideal is to spend a period of 3 to 4 days in the city. This time is usually enough to enjoy the main attractions there and in the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park. If you have more time, you can share your stay with other cities around the Park, such as Atins.
Here is an example of a 3-day itinerary:
- Journey 1: Arrival and tour of the city of Barreirinhas. You can visit the Preguiças River, take a boat trip and enjoy getting to know local life.
- Journey 2: Excursion to Lençóis Maranhenses National Park. You can take a full-day tour that usually includes a 4×4 drive through the dunes and time to swim in the lagoons. Some tours also include visiting local communities.
- Step 3: Return to the Park, taking a different route to the previous day.
- Step 4: Consider a trip to Farol de Mandacaru, a place with wonderful panoramic views of the region, or a visit to the fishing village of Atins, which is more remote and less touristy.
Remember that it is important to book tours in advance, especially during high season. Furthermore, tours are subject to weather conditions, so it’s always good to have an extra day or two in case you need to reschedule something.
How to get to Barreirinhas?
Most people start their journey through the capital of Maranhão, São Luís. See below the most common options:
- By plane to São Luís: Most major Brazilian airports have direct flights to Marechal Cunha Machado International Airport in São Luís.
- From São Luís to Barreirinhas by bus: There are bus companies that travel between São Luís and Barreirinhas. The journey usually takes around 4 to 5 hours.
- From São Luís to Barreirinhas by car: The drive from São Luís to Barreirinhas takes around 3 to 4 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions. The most common route is via BR-135, then MA-402 and finally MA-225.
- From São Luís to Barreirinhas by transfer or taxi: Many hotels or travel agencies in São Luís offer direct transfer services to Barreirinhas. This can be a comfortable and stress-free option, although it can be more expensive than the bus.
When planning your trip, take into account that, especially during high season, traffic can be heavy and buses can be crowded, so it is recommended to book your bus ticket or transfer in advance.
Where to stay in Barreirinhas
The city is small, so there’s no mystery: the closer to the river and the city center, the better the location.
Below, we have put together a selection of some of the best places to stay in the city:
If you haven’t found your favorite option, take a look at all the accommodation options there.
What to do in Barreirinhas: tours and excursions
See now the main attractions of Barreirinhas and what to do there.
1. Lençóis Maranhenses National Park
An immensity of sand, dunes and lagoons of incredible colors. This is the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, which occupies an area larger than that of our largest metropolis. To get there, you need to reach one of the cities that surround the park – Barreirinhas is the most common option and has the greatest infrastructure.
From there, you still need to book a guided tour. Only then is entry to the park permitted. No food or alcoholic drinks, but don’t forget the sunscreen. And be prepared to walk. Very.
The most common mistake is to enter the park only once. The ideal is to reserve at least two days on the sheets, to allow time to do at least two different routes. Tours cost between R$130 and R$200 per person and last around four hours. In all of them, the vehicle will pick you up at your hotel and leave you there, after the end of the program.
A very popular option, for example, is the trail that leads through the Atins lagoons (most of it is done in 4×4, don’t worry. It costs R$170 and can be booked in advance here.
Another very popular route, perhaps the most popular of them, is the one that leads to Lagoa do Peixe and Lagoa Azul. It costs R$120 and is available here.
And there are still those who fly over the park, another tour offered by several agencies in the city.
Read too:
• What is the visit to Lençóis Maranheses National Park like?
• Complete itinerary along the Rota das Emoções
• Where to stay in Barreirinhas
2. Flying tour along the Preguiças River
Didn’t I tell you that Barreirinhas itself is an interesting place? To prove the point, just look at the view we have from the windows of most of the city’s hotels:
This is the Preguiças river, which cuts through the city and serves as an avenue. Residents use the river to go to work, children get on a boat to go to school and tourists get on speedboats to see the immensity of water, forest and dunes that make this region such a beauty.
This fast boat has a name, or rather a nickname: Voadeira. You can take different types of flying tours there. The most traditional, however, involves Pequenos Lençóis, Caburé beach and the villages of Vassouras and Mandacaru. The tour takes the whole day and costs around R$120. You can guarantee your place using this link.
Read too: Caburé Beach and the flying boat ride
3. Tubing trip along the Formiga River
The fourth element of the tours offered in Barreirinhas is a float trip down the river. When I found out about this, I immediately thought about those common tours in Southeast Asia – which usually involve a lot of drunk tourists and a lot of confusion. Luckily the one in Barreirinhas is much more relaxing. And it helps the local community, which is very poor.
The Formiga River is a small, beautiful stream with calm waters. In reality, it is not in Barreirinhas, but in Cardosa, a tiny village near Barreirinhas. You enter the river, climb on the tube and relax. A guide from the local community accompanies the group, to prevent the buoys from moving away and to take you to the final destination. Finally, you can still have lunch at a local restaurant – we recommend it. You can book your tour from this link.
Read too: Float ride on the Formiga River
4. The attractions of Barreirinhas
With just over 50 thousand inhabitants, Barreirinhas is not a city that has museums, parks or anything like that. But the center is nice, including the church square and the entire riverfront. There is no shortage of good restaurants, especially on the Avenida Beira Rio promenade.
This is a great activity for those halves of the day, while you’re waiting for a tour or after you’ve returned from one: look for a good restaurant, order a beer (or a juice) and relax admiring the river. I guarantee it will be a pleasant experience.
If you prefer, you can take a boat and have lunch at one of the many restaurants on the other side of the river. Remember to bring cash, as these establishments do not usually accept cards. Speaking of which, there are bank branches in Barreirinhas (I saw Banco do Brasil, Bradesco and Banco do Nordeste).
5. Atins and Santo Amaro, the other villages
Do you have more time? Take the opportunity to visit two villages that also serve as a base for Lençóis. Atins is a traditional tour – we just didn’t go there because the rain had blocked the route, according to local residents. In any case, 1h30 flight and you will be there. Tip: it’s on the way to Caburé, so it might be a good idea to plan a night in Atins after visiting this beach
In addition to the sheets and Lagoa Verde, Atins is famous for having the famous Camarão da Luzia. And it’s famous – everyone talks about this restaurant. In a quick search, I discovered that the fame came from a column in Revista Época, written by Ricardo Freire. He guarantees that Luzia’s shrimp is the best you will ever eat. If you stop by, come back here and tell me if you agreed with him.
There is a snack transfer from Barreirinhas to Atins at this link.
In Santo Amaro, a village called the back door of Lençóis, you can quickly access other beautiful lagoons in the National Park, such as Gaivota. You can go by 4×4, leaving Barreirinhas.
The Route of Emotions
Getting to the sheets is not easy. First you need to get to São Luís. Task achieved? Great, but now take a bus to Barreirinhas, a trip that takes 4 hours. If you want to visit Atins and Santo Amaro, that’s where it gets complicated: you’ll have to continue traveling. And, to get to the park, be prepared to walk.
That said, I make it clear that it’s worth it. Every real invested. And, if you have time and availability, you can combine Lençóis Maranheses with two other fantastic destinations: Jericoacoara, in Ceara, and Delta do Parnaíba, in Piauí.
You have a backpacking itinerary ready, passing through the three states and which even has a pompous name, thought up by the marketing people: Rota das Emoções. Jericoacoara and the Delta are 210 km away from each other, while Barreirinhas is 179 km from the Delta.
Several travel agencies operate the route. The tour is not the cheapest, but it is worth it. For backpackers and budget travelers, Viaje na Viagem explains how to travel this stretch by public transport. If you choose to do this, buy a multi-destination air ticket, arriving through Fortaleza and returning through São Luís. And have plenty of time. We explain how to buy the ticket in this text here.
It’s worth taking a day trip from São Luís
Look, I don’t recommend it. Traditional round-trip trips – where you go and return on the same day – work better for closer destinations.
Besides, it’s a waste: Lençóis deserves whole days, not a few hours interspersed between two van trips.
Where to eat in Barreirinhas-MA
- Bela Vista Restaurant: It is on Rua Anacleto Carvalho, one of the main streets in the city, facing the place where the Cisne Branco buses leave (n° 617). There is no shortage of options – also with similar views and decks that go into the river – there.
- Windward: a restaurant and pizzeria with good prices and great food. It is on Avenida Beira Rio.
- Bamboo: named by TripAdvisor as the best restaurant in Barreirinhas. It serves everything, from regional food, seafood and even oriental food. Dishes between 60 and 80 reais.
Don’t forget to eat at locals’ homes or homemade food restaurants on the banks of the Preguiças River or in nearby communities. The price is good, the food is good and as a bonus you get to know a different part of the local community.
You will have the chance to taste delicious dishes with free-range chicken and sun-dried meat, among other things prepared with whatever the owner has in the fridge that day. These places usually don’t accept cards, so bring cash. Read more tips on where to eat in Barreirinhas.
