I went to see Le Quartier, the new Troigros gastronomic complex in São Paulo and I was amazed! The French-Carioca chef had already opened the São Paulo version of Chez Claude and after purchasing neighboring properties, in Itaim Bibi, Boucherie was opened. The cozy restaurant works along the same lines as CT Boucherie, in Rio. In other words, you choose the protein and the side dishes come on a rotating basis. In the same place, there is also the Quartier bar, with jazz shows and new arrivals. The place is a success, very busy and charming! In charge, the charismatic Claude and his competent son Thomas, who take yet another initiative in this marriage between France and Brazil, this time with São Paulo DNA. Take the opportunity to read about La Coppa: an Italian restaurant inside Allianz Parque!
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Butcher’s shop
My Saturday lunch was at the newly opened Boucherie. The lounge is cozy, with the feel of a Parisian bistro. Plaques hanging on the white tiled wall and small blackboards hanging with the names of the dishes add an extra touch to the environment. Meanwhile, the clay bricks give a rustic look and “warm up” the room, along with the wooden furniture. They contrast with the industrial architecture present in the ceiling finish and black-painted installations.
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The service is agile and friendly, especially because, in the form of rotation, it is essential for customers to rotate. No wonder, the format has been a total success in Rio for 12 years.
There are several options for starters and you might even be unsure of what to choose. However, we concentrated and accepted the warm, naturally fermented bread suggested by the waiter, accompanied by butter. In addition, we also went for the irresistible filet mignon meat pastry cut on the tip of a knife. I’d eat ten more if I could, lol. Finally, we tried the burrata, which was very soft.
The meats – Troigros gastronomic complex
For starters, we bet on the Poterhouse, which perfectly serves two people and comes to the table already sliced. For those who are not familiar, the Porterhouse has three cuts in the same piece: rump, sirloin and filet mignon and is usually very highly valued. The meat was tender and came to the doneness we wanted. However, it is worth mentioning that there is also grilled fish. In fact, the neighboring table opted for an octopus that made my mouth water!
+The favorite pizzas of chefs in Rio and São Paulo.
The trimmings
Meanwhile, it was difficult to keep up with the side dishes due to their abundance. The super crispy panko crumbs and dry crispy potatoes are left on the table. It’s always a difficult task not to devour them entirely. Warning, friend: better wait for what’s to come. The garnishes are sure to please everyone. For example, there are everything from vegetables, such as chayote au gratin with Grueyère cheese and okra sautéed with tomato, to more high-calorie ones, such as cassava puree and potatoes au gratin. One of my favorites was the tomato au gratin.
Chef’s words
The house that was born in Rio had some adjustments when taken to São Paulo. According to Thomas, some measures were put into practice to please the São Paulo palate, such as, for example, the breaded steak, which is now on the menu. “In Rio, CT is known for being a place after the beach, as it is in Leblon. In São Paulo, customers want larger grills and tend to spend more time at the table. Therefore, we prepare a whole fish and even a suckling pig, ordered in advance”, explains the chef.
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The new Troigros gastronomic complex
Le Cartier is very different from other projects we see out there. At least in Brazil. The idea is precisely to be able to stay in the same place for hours. Before or after lunch, sit at the bar for a drink, for example. It serves both restaurants and offers a mix of classic cocktails with signature creations by mixologist Esteban. Furthermore, those who are excited can stay late and also watch a show on the weekend.
Who’s coming…
Thomas also told me that a third restaurant will be opened, this time Mediterranean. The idea is to combine cuisine not only from Spain, France and Italy but also to use some Arabic touches. In other words, Le Cartier is an innovative place that is here to stay and if you don’t know it yet, go there!
Address: Rua Professor Tamandaré Toledo, 25, Itaim Bibi.
Text and photos by Renata Araújo.
