The street food of Cartagena de Indias represents the ethnic and cultural diversity of the Colombian Caribbean. It’s a little bit of Spain, a little bit indigenous, a little bit of Africa. And, in a city with such great tourist appeal that it sometimes seems scenographic, it is also a haven of authenticity, simplicity and, of course, a guarantee of a good gastronomic experience at low prices.
Few images are more representative of the city than the fruit trees with their colorful, flowing dresses and their basins full of tropical varieties. They always appear on the outskirts of the historic center and other tourist attractions, hoping to make a little money from visitors who want a photo. It’s guava, mango, strawberry, star fruit, watermelon and tangerine, to name the most common. Refreshing and tasty, fruits make a good healthy snack or dessert. A cup full of them costs around 3000 Colombian pesos, just over a dollar.
To alleviate the extreme heat that plagues the city all year round, street vendors sell cold lemon or tamarind juice (delicious) near the gates of the historic center, in Parque Centenário and in front of the Tram stop in the walled city. The glass only costs 1000 pesos and, oh, I drank it without fear of water and survived.
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The banana deserves a separate chapter. It not only serves as a snack, but is also the star of some of Cartagena’s street food dishes. This is the case of patacones, a typical side dish from Colombia and Venezuela that can also be served individually if you are in a hurry or just want to stave off your hunger. It is a dough of fried green plantains, seasoned with garlic, pepper and other spices and, in some cases, with a spicy sauce or cheese.
Patacones being sold on the outskirts of the walled city
It must be because we are half-brother countries, but Colombians have as much of a weakness for fried snacks as Brazilians. There, however, these quick, practical and cheap meals are always fried and cost between 1000 and 2000 pesos. In general, carts have more than one option, which is usually the papaa potato ball stuffed with meat, carimañolacassava dumplings with cheese, or a type of fried roll, which are filled with cheese
Empanadas, which are also fried in Colombia, have sales outlets specializing in the most famous Latin American snack. They are usually stuffed with meat and potatoes, which is the traditional recipe, but more modern places invent a variety of fillings.
And of course, you can’t help but remember the arepa. This cornmeal cupcake stuffed with cheese is so delicious that it even deserved a post just in its honor. In Cartagena, they are usually sold two for 3000 pesos, and come stuffed with egg or cheese. You can’t leave without trying one.
But the most daring street vendors innovate more when it comes to offering dishes. In front of the entrance to the Clock Tower, where there is a flower shop, there are people selling paella dishes from a cart and, if you look, you can also find ceviche served in a disposable cup. When you’re craving sugar, order a bocadillo, which is nothing more than our very own Romeo and Juliet.
In addition to the streets and entrances of the historic center, another good place to try the street food of Cartagena de Indias is the Getsemani church square. Dozens of carts mingle there with people who arrive looking for a cheap dinner, chatting over a beer and watching dance and music performances by independent artists.
Featured image: By Rodrigo Fernandez
