The road is the big challenge. The dirt path that zigzags between mountains and valleys leaves the village of Mitla and continues uphill. In the back of the truck, crammed between other travelers, the dust and rattle made the stretch seem longer than it was. But at the end was the prize for those who resisted: the magnificent petrified waterfalls and natural pools of Hierve el Água.
Located in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, 70 km from the Oaxaca capital of Juaréz, Hierve el Água is a set of rock formations over 200 meters high and that resemble waterfalls that have remained frozen in time and natural pools with an infinity edge, with views of the mountains that rise around it.
The panorama, which looks like something from a five-star resort, but is a gift from nature, was formed thousands of years ago, due to the flow of carbonated water from springs high up on the mountain. The liquid that slowly sculpted the rocks also created the pools of water that sometimes appear green, sometimes turquoise, and which maintain a pleasant temperature of 24 degrees: enough to break the ice and refresh at the same time.
Read too: Monte Albán, the ruins of an ancient Zapotec city in Oaxaca
So don’t be fooled. The name Hierve el Água has nothing to do with boiling thermal springs or anything like that. This carbonated water comes from the springs, which, when rising from the earth, release bubbles as if it were at boiling point. In ancient times, the place was an important Zapotec ceremonial center. Even today it is possible to see tombs that preserve the architecture found in the Mitla archaeological zone and an irrigation system built by these pre-Hispanic people.
In addition to cooling off in the natural pools, you can go down an easy trail to see the stone waterfalls up close and a beautiful view of the Serra Mixe and the Tlacolula Valley. Another trail, a little harder, takes you to the base of the largest of the waterfalls. The place has an area with small stalls selling snacks and Mexican food, a changing room and a bathroom (five pesos per use).
How to Get to Hierve el Agua
Tours operated by agencies include a visit to Hierve el Água in the same package as the archaeological site of Mitla, a mezcaleria and the ancient tree of Santa Maria de Tule. This could be a good option if you only have a few days in the city, but remember that these visits are always hectic and, if you want to enjoy it at your leisure, it’s best to do the tour on your own.
To do this, you need to take a bus in Oaxaca towards the town of Mitla (20 pesos). The bus drops you off at the entrance to the village. If you want, you can take the opportunity to follow the main street for about 15 minutes, to the local archaeological site (it costs 65 pesos to enter).
Combining the two tours is a two-in-one combo that is very convenient in the region. After the visit, just return to the place where the bus dropped you off. From there the trucks leave towards Hierve el Água. They charge 50 pesos per person but require a minimum of five passengers per ride. You can wait until more people arrive to share the car or pay the difference. The truck drops you off inside the reserve, but you will still have to pay 25 pesos to enter.
