Together with a group of Brazilian and international journalists and chefs, I went to visit the famous Sítio of the Rueda family, owner of A Casa do Porco, the 7th best restaurant in the world, according to 50Best, the list of the 50 best restaurants in the world. The organic inputs served in the group’s restaurants (A Casa do Porco, Bar da Dona Onça, Hot Pork and Sorveteria do Centro) are planted there, always according to seasonality. Furthermore, I also visited Sítio São Francisco, where free-range pigs are raised free-range in the “Siscal Model” until they reach adulthood. Therefore, it was a trip full of learning, where we saw up close the simple way in which the award-winning chefs live in the interior of São Paulo and the seriousness with which they take their work.
The conclusion is that we all need to be aware of where our food comes from and understand the entire food chain. After all, behind each dish chosen from a menu, there are many people involved and hard work that transforms food from farm to table.
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Rueda site in São José do Rio Pardo
It was in January 2020 that Jefferson and Janaína bought the rural property, on the riverbank, where the chef used to play when he was a child. They were certified as family farmers and thus a new phase of A Casa do Porco emerged. The chefs work with partners who produce vegetables through the agroforestry system. In other words, once at the site, we learn all the stages of the food chain in the best style farm to table. Therefore, we understand how chefs need to respect what nature offers when putting together a new menu, as it is guided by the seasonality of organic ingredients, most of which are produced in-house. And we as consumers must also understand this entire process.
Sítio São Francisco: pig farming
Accompanied by Zé Luis Bertoletti, we were able to visit the place where free-range pigs are raised free range. There are between 1000 and 1200 free-range pigs of different Brazilian breeds, such as Piau, Sorocaba and “Orelha de Colher”, who go wherever they want, sleep in the shade of trees and eat the best of the best. In fact, food is also a differentiating factor in the color and flavor of the meat. They only eat vegetables that would otherwise be discarded (carrots, beets, sweet potatoes, zucchini) and have a whey supplement.
The creation system is the “Siscal Model”. Only during the first 30 days do they stay in the maternity ward, as they are very sensitive and need to be close to their mother. Therefore, after this period, the animals begin to integrate with the pasture, where they are released, roaming the property.
Carlão’s Bar
We also made a strategic visit to Bar do Carlão, in São Sebastião da Grama, famous in the region for its crunchy cracklings! In fact, he was the inspiration for the traditional pancetta with guava paste at Casa do Porco.
And of course, a trip immersed in deep Brazil had to end with a phenomenal feijoada, made especially by chef Janaína! There was even a samba circle, with spectacular musicians from the city.
In other words, those were the days when I felt privileged by my work, being the only journalist in Rio de Janeiro and one that I will carry with me forever! After all, understanding where the food we eat comes from and knowing what’s behind an award-winning restaurant is essential!
The restaurants of the A Casa do Porco group
During the trip, I also had the chance to have lunch at Bar da Dona Onça, which celebrated its 15th anniversary! There was a lively party on the street, in front of the iconic restaurant located in the Copan building.
I also went to Hot Pork, the house dedicated to hot dogs from the award-winning duo Jefferson Rueda and Janaína Torres Rueda. Relaxed and with high tables and stools on the sidewalk, the space offers the best sandwich you’ll ever eat. The hot pork features tasty pork sausage from our own production on fluffy artisanal potato bread, red onion and cucumber pickles, drops of ketchup with a touch of apple, mayonnaise with lemon, mustard and parsley. You can also opt for sausage or the vegetarian version, not pork, with tofu and mushroom sausage and a softer consistency.
Next door is the Cidade Ice Cream Shop, which offers varied and unbelievable flavors, prepared in an Italian Carpegiani machine. The lemon pie, with ice cream and fruit cream, biscuit and white chocolate cream covered in marshmallow toasted with a torch is one of the highlights. But I actually opted for the brigadeiro, absolutely fantastic!
A Casa do Porco – the best restaurant in Brazil
A trip to Casa do Porco is always memorable and essential for all lovers of quality cuisine. With artisanal and creative work, the chefs offer constantly changing menus, always with pig as the protagonist. However, the classic papad sushi and pancetta crackling with guava paste remain the stars of the menu. After visiting Sítio dos Rueda and Sítio São Francisco, we still value the freshest and most seasonal ingredients that reach the tables at A Casa do Porco.
Therefore, a menu of country haute cuisine that is surprisingly light, delicate and authentic and, on top of that, the most affordable you will find around the world.
By Renata Araújo.
Photos: Renata Araújo and Mauro Holanda
