The Sumidero Canyon is an impressive crack in the earth through which the mighty Grijalva River meanders. With narrow walls that reach 1000 meters, the place is the second most visited site in the state of Chiapas, a region in southern Mexico with exuberant nature and in which the Mayan culture is still alive. It is second only to the archaeological ruins in the middle of the Palenque rainforest.
The best way to get to know the Sumidero Canyon is through a boat trip lasting around two hours that leaves from the city of Chiapa de Corzo or the Embarcadero de Cahuaré to the Chicoasén hydroelectric dam – one of the most important in the country – and back to the starting point. And it is from there, from inside a boat amidst the enormous rock formations and rich wildlife, that you understand the hustle and bustle surrounding the place. At each bend in the river, a new postcard reveals itself right in front of us.
The canyon is located within a National Park created in 1980 to protect the region’s nature. Therefore, during the tour, you will come across numerous species of birds, turtles and crocodiles, some of which are at risk of extinction, such as the Central American river turtle and the American crocodile. The guides who accompany the groups on the boats are trained to find and talk about these animals, as well as the native vegetation and curious rock formations along the way – some that resemble human or animal faces.
The interior of the park holds surprises. There are small river beaches here and there, caves to be explored, springs, rapids, waterfalls and small waterfalls that flow from the top of the gorges. One of the most interesting caves is Colores, named after the minerals found in its walls, which paint it different shades of pink. Inside there is a statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Between December 8th and 12th, when the saint’s feast day is celebrated, pilgrims usually arrive at the cave by boat to pay their respects to the main protector of Mexicans. Flowers and candles are left there as offerings to the faithful throughout the year. Another interesting place is the Cueva del Silencio, inside which there is no echo or noise.
After the rainy season, which runs from May to October, it is common to see trash accumulated on the banks of the river. These are waste that travel through the water from the city of Tuxtla, the state capital, and other municipalities through which the Grijalva passes. The park has equipment and staff dedicated to cleaning the area throughout the year, but the work is a lot and the garbage keeps arriving.
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The viewpoints of the Sumidero Canyon National Park
One way to discover the Canyon from a new perspective is to do so from dry land. The Sumidero Canyon National Park has five viewpoints connected by a road that allow you to see the rift from above and the river passing below. Not that one replaces the other: the idea is to do both tours.
To get to the viewpoints you can book a tour with an agency or drive from Tuxtla to the park entrance. From there, just follow the road up and pay attention to the signs indicating where to park. The first viewpoint is called “La Ceiba” and is 23 km from Tuxtla. The others are called “La Coyota”, “Roblar”, “El Tepehuaje” and “Los Chiapa”. The latter has a restaurant service and a small local craft market. It is also the one that offers the best view, as it is at a higher point and allows for a greater panorama. Entrance to the National Park costs $30 pesos.
How to get to Sumidero Canyon on your own
Anyone traveling on their own must drive to the town of Chiapa del Corzo or take one of the collectives (public buses) that leave Tuxtla towards the town’s central square. You can also go to Chiapa by bus from San Cristóbal de las Casas, but the bus will drop you off on the road near the city entrance and you will have to walk to the center. It’s not a very long walk, so don’t worry.
You can book a boat trip right there in the central square, with one of the vendors waiting for tourists to arrive. There are several boarding points along the Grijalva River, which are 35 km from the center of Chiapa, but the cost of the tours is somewhat standardized: $190 pesos (R$40), with entry to the National Park included.
Tours with agencies to the Sumidero Canyon
If you were like most people and chose San Cristóbal de las Casas as your base to explore the state of Chiapas, visiting the Sumidero Canyon is easy. Several agencies in the city offer tours to the park, with transportation to and from the center of San Cris. There are two types of tour: one that includes a boat trip through the Sumidero Canyon and access to the National Park’s viewpoints, to see the walls from above, and another that includes the same boat trip, but leaves out the viewpoints and includes a visit to Chiapa del Corzo. Both cost around $300 pesos (R$60). I chose the first option. If you have time, you can visit Chiapa del Corzo on another day, but to get to the viewpoints, only by car or agency. Some operators also offer a canyon tour combined with a visit to the indigenous village of San Juan Chamula.
There are also tours leaving from Tuxtla, but, despite the National Park being located there, it is still better to book the tour leaving from San Cristóbal de las Casas since, strangely, the agencies in Tuxtla charge more for the service and the city itself does not There is nothing very interesting to justify spending the night there.
When to visit Sumidero Canyon and other tips
If you go alone, it’s best to go first thing in the morning, when the sun is not yet very strong. You’ll have to wait for enough people to arrive for the boat to fill up, but it’s likely that this wait won’t take more than half an hour. The boats usually carry 20 people, but there are also smaller boats, with 10 seats, that offer the service.
During the rainy season, which runs from May to October, bring a raincoat and a jacket. Don’t forget to apply sunscreen, as you will be exposed throughout the tour. A bottle of water is always recommended, but there are street vendors on the river once you reach the dam.
