O que é alfaiataria: aprenda a reconhecer esse estilo e como usá-lo

What is tailoring, how to recognize this style and use it

Fashion

For those who don’t know what tailoring is, it is a style of clothing with a straight and refined cut. In short, they are modern and elegant pieces.

Do you know what tailoring is? In short, the term refers to elegant clothing with a refined cut. In other words, tailoring is a cutting style and not a type of fabric or piece of clothing. Therefore, they are clothes with a straight and structured cut, with complex modeling and an elaborate finish.

Furthermore, the first pieces of this style were made by tailors. All of them were exclusive and bespoke. However, it was just men’s clothing like blazers, pants and shirts, for example. On the other hand, with the advancement of fashion and social changes, the style ended up winning over women.

Therefore, today tailoring is part of the wardrobe of men and women, who like to dress elegantly. Finally, in the last 15 years the textile industry has undergone major changes. Likewise, the tailoring has undergone a renovation. Therefore, today it is possible to find tailoring pieces made from the most diverse fabrics.

What is tailoring: history and origin

What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it
Textile industry

The term tailoring is a word of Arabic origin, al-ẖayyât, whose meaning is seamstress. Which emerged in the Middle Ages (between the 12th and 14th centuries). Ultimately, it was the name given to the place where tailors produced exclusive, custom-made pieces for each client. Like blazers, pants, suits and shirts, for example.

Remembering that the pieces were made manually, in addition to being exclusively for men. However, in the 16th century, Queen Elizabeth I was one of the first women to wear tailoring. However, it was only in the 1940s, with the end of the war, that the use of tailoring by women gained strength.

Retro Universe – Marlene Dietrich

Well, with the end of the war came the economic crisis. And as women didn’t have money to buy a lot of fabric for their dresses, they added tailoring to their wardrobe. Because it was a style with straight-cut clothes, they used less fabric. Therefore, more economical. Furthermore, singer and actress Marlene Dietrich immortalized the well-cut and fitted suit with long pants and a high waist.

However, it was a scandal at the time, as women did not wear long pants except for riding. In this way, men’s suits became Tailleur (skirt or trousers with a blazer and shirt), widely used by women to this day.

What is tailoring: evolution of style

Textile industry

It was in the 19th century that tailored clothes became part of women’s wardrobes around the world. Well, several brands such as Coco Chanel, Saint Laurent, Céline, Chloé, Lanvin, Dior and recently, Botega Venetal, began to incorporate the tailoring style into female models.

Harmony

In 1920, Coco Chanel launched her famous Tailleur. She later launched blazers, pants and skirts, with the brand’s unique touch. Likewise, the launch of the Dior Tailleur, which revolutionized the fashion world, serving as inspiration to this day. In the 1960s, Yves Saint Laurent launched the women’s tuxedo.

Furthermore, until the 1970s, tailoring pieces were made by tailors, and clothes were made to measure. Furthermore, the finishing was done by hand, as the sewing machines of the time did not perform more elaborate seams.

On the other hand, nowadays pieces can be made in ateliers or factories. And they can be exclusive or series models. And of course, they dress both men and women.

Types of tailoring

Cora Canela

To differentiate what tailoring is from other styles, just remember that it is a structured piece, with a straight and adjusted cut. They are generally made with more structured fabric, with a good fit, elegant and social. Therefore, the clothes are not fluid.

Furthermore, tailoring has a different modeling and sewing technique, used in the creation of social and executive clothing. However, there is no problem in creating tailored pieces for sports use, as long as you follow the techniques and patterns of the tailoring style.

Furthermore, there are several tailoring lines, such as French tailoring, which is the oldest. In addition to the German one, known for its impeccable military uniforms and the Italian one, known as the most elegant. And finally, English tailoring, considered the most traditional.

What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it
What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it

In this way, renowned tailors have stood out over the years, transforming tailoring from simple military uniforms and executive attire into haute couture surrounded by elegance and glamour. Are they:

  • Monsieur Guilson – France in the 50s and 60s
  • Hugo Boss – Germany in the 50s
  • Paul Smith – England in the 60s and 70s
  • Ermenegildo Zegna and Giorgio Armani – Italy in the 60s and 70s

Currently, tailoring is part of the haute couture catwalks, considered as luxury pieces. Thanks to designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexandre Mcqueen and brands like Just Cavalli, Gucci, and Carven.

Characteristics

What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it

Tailoring is synonymous with elegance and good taste. To achieve this, the pieces are made with an invisible finish. In other words, the clothes have finishing and internal lining. Furthermore, both male and female models have the same shoulder drop design.

Furthermore, coats, blazers and jackets have interlining and shoulder pads, which make the shoulder straighter. Generally, sleeves usually have two leaves, which serve to shape the curve of the arm and elbow. The pants, on the other hand, are neither tight nor baggy, they have a straight cut.

Therefore, the fabrics used in tailoring tend to be drier, with a straight, smooth and firmer fit. For example, cold wools, linen, crepe, garbadine, jacquard, zibeline, tweed, cashmere, two-way microfiber, oxford, among others.

However, all these fabrics have a first, second and third row. What differentiates them is the quantity of threads used in manufacturing the fabric. Therefore, you need to be careful with fakes. Because, what determines the beauty of a tailoring piece is the quality of the fabrics, the modeling and the impeccable finishing.

How to use

Harmony

The tailoring pieces are very versatile, with several possible combinations. For example, a white shirt with black tailored shorts or pants. Which is a perfect and elegant combination for both a professional and a more relaxed environment. Additionally, you can combine tailoring with more malleable fabric pieces or play with other textures.

What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it

Therefore, for warmer days, you can opt for shorter pieces, such as skirts or shorts, combined with cropped tops. Another option is tailored dresses and the combination of blouses with light fabrics worn with a tailored bottom and a vest to finish. Furthermore, for a casual look, the combination of t-shirt and tailoring is perfect.

Furthermore, every year a new tailoring collection is launched, following the trend of the moment. This way, the style gets a refresh in its pieces. For example, blazers in shorter versions and with pockets, which have become a trend for 2021.

What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it
What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it
What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it
What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it
What is tailoring: learn to recognize this style and how to use it

As for colors, tailoring can also be very versatile. This way, don’t get stuck with neutral colors, use shades of red, pink and beige. Likewise, create looks with stripes and checks, which never go out of style.

Anyway, now that you know what tailoring is, you can play with combinations. Therefore, wear shorts on warmer days, mix fabrics with different textures with tailoring, creating perfect looks for everyday life or for more formal environments. The important thing is to create looks that suit you and are comfortable, without losing the elegance that tailoring provides.

So, if you liked this article, read also: How to wear a Blazer? Tips and outfit inspiration.

Evoking Timeless Elegance: A Dive into 1960s Men’s Fashion Trends

Step into a time of sophistication and style as we take a deep dive into the fashion trends of the 1960s. The 1960s was a pivotal decade that introduced a new era of menswear characterized by timeless elegance and attention to detail.

From sleek suits to bold patterns and accessories, this was a time when men made a statement with their style. In the 1960s, the fashion scene experienced a shift from the conservative suits of the previous decade to more contemporary and adventurous styles.

The influence of icons like James Bond and the Beatles played a significant role in shaping men’s fashion during this period. With sharply tailored suits, slim-fit trousers, and narrow ties, men embraced a more streamlined and refined look.

However, it wasn’t just about the clothing; grooming and personal style became equally important. This decade witnessed the rise of the well-groomed gentleman, with attention to hairstyles, clean-shaven faces, and meticulous grooming routines.

Join us on this sartorial journey through time, as we explore the key fashion trends and iconic looks that defined the 1960s, showcasing how this era continues to inspire modern men’s fashion. Get ready to evoke timeless elegance and make a bold fashion statement of your own.

Key Elements of 1960s Men’s Fashion:

1. Slim Silhouettes:

  • The 1960s saw a departure from the boxy cuts of the previous decade, with a shift towards slim-fitting suits and clothing.

2. Bold Patterns and Colors:

  • Men embraced vibrant colors and bold patterns, including paisley, geometric prints, and psychedelic designs, reflecting the influence of the cultural revolution of the era.

3. Mod and Beatnik Styles:

  • The mod and beatnik movements heavily influenced men’s fashion during this time, with mod styles characterized by sharp tailoring and minimalist aesthetics, while beatnik fashion embraced a more casual, bohemian look.

4. High-Waisted Trousers:

  • Trousers with higher waistlines were popular, often paired with narrow belts and worn with shorter jackets.

5. Turtlenecks and Nehru Jackets:

  • Turtlenecks and Nehru jackets became iconic pieces of men’s fashion in the 1960s, reflecting the influence of Eastern and international styles.

Popular Clothing Styles for Men in the 1960s:

1. Suiting:

  • Slim-cut suits with narrow lapels and flat-front trousers were popular, often in bold colors or patterns.

2. Casual Wear:

  • Casual attire included fitted sweaters, button-down shirts, polo shirts, and slim-fit trousers or jeans.

3. Outerwear:

  • Pea coats, trench coats, and bomber jackets were staple outerwear pieces, often worn with a sense of style and sophistication.

Influential Fashion Icons of the 1960s:

1. The Beatles:

  • The Fab Four’s iconic style, featuring collarless jackets, slim suits, and Chelsea boots, influenced men’s fashion globally.

2. James Bond:

  • The suave and sophisticated style of James Bond, as portrayed by Sean Connery in the 1960s, popularized tailored suits and refined menswear.

3. Twiggy:

  • The androgynous style of model Twiggy challenged traditional gender norms and inspired men’s fashion with her mod looks and pixie haircut.

Hairstyles and Grooming Trends in the 1960s:

1. The Beatles Mop Top:

  • The mop top hairstyle, characterized by longer hair combed forward and slightly covering the forehead, gained popularity thanks to The Beatles.

2. Pompadours and Side Parts:

  • Pompadours and slicked-back hairstyles with side parts were also common among men in the 1960s, reflecting a sense of sophistication and rebellion.

Accessories and Footwear in 1960s Men’s Fashion:

1. Sunglasses:

  • Round, oversized sunglasses were a staple accessory, popularized by icons like John Lennon and Audrey Hepburn.

2. Chelsea Boots:

  • Chelsea boots, characterized by their sleek design and elastic side panels, became a signature footwear choice for men during the 1960s.

The Impact of Pop Culture on 1960s Men’s Fashion:

  • Pop culture, including music, film, and art, played a significant role in shaping men’s fashion during the 1960s, with icons like The Beatles and James Bond influencing trends and styles worldwide.

How to Incorporate 1960s Men’s Fashion into Modern Style:

  • Incorporate elements of 1960s fashion into modern looks by mixing tailored pieces with contemporary streetwear, experimenting with bold colors and patterns, and adding vintage-inspired accessories like Chelsea boots or retro sunglasses.

Iconic 1960s Men’s Fashion Moments in Film and Television:

  • The sleek suits of James Bond in “Dr. No” and the mod-inspired looks of “A Hard Day’s Night” by The Beatles are just a few examples of iconic 1960s men’s fashion moments in film and television.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of 1960s Men’s Fashion:

  • The fashion innovations of the 1960s continue to influence men’s style today, with the era’s emphasis on boldness, individuality, and experimentation remaining relevant in contemporary fashion trends. From slim silhouettes to bold patterns and iconic accessories, the legacy of 1960s men’s fashion continues to inspire modern interpretations of style and self-expression.