The Salar de Uyuni, located in southwestern Bolivia, near the border with Chile and the Atacama Desert, is the largest salt flat in the world. It is more than 10,000 square kilometers. It’s a white immensity that seems to have no end!
Taking a tour of the Salar includes a dose of adventure and – almost always – trouble. All this is due to the remote location of the city of Uyuni, where most tours depart (there is also the possibility of starting the tour from the city of San Pedro de Atacama in Chile) and the lack of structure and resources in Bolivia. .
To give you an idea, Uyuni is more than 500km from the capital La Paz. To get there by car, you need a 4×4 car and a bit of patience and courage to face hours of bumping along Bolivia’s almost never paved roads. Therefore, arriving by plane is a good choice. And don’t worry, it’s not a teco teco! See the post: Getting around Bolivia: what is the best means of transport?
If you’re already thinking about giving up, don’t worry. The view is spectacular! Surreal, extraordinary are words that apply very well to the region. It is, in fact, enough to leave anyone’s jaw dropping. And, believe me, the landscapes are so sensational that they make up for the adventure and hardships.
Of course, it is possible to embark on a more sophisticated trip, including luxurious hotels made of salt, such as the Luna Salada or the Tayna hotels. However, I have to confess that the adventure through the Salar de Uyuni and the Lagunas Coloradas is more complete and fun if done the traditional way: crossing inhospitable and incredibly beautiful regions for 3 days, in a 4×4 jeep and sleeping in collective accommodation. The worst part, I’ll tell you, is taking a shower with cold water – or not taking a shower, the rest is a breeze. As no one is made of iron, we stayed for a day at the Hotel Luna Salada, to offset the troubles lol. But that’s a topic for another post…
How do tours of Salar de Uyuni and Lagunas Coloradas work?
There are several Bolivian tourism agencies that offer the most varied types of tours.
The most popular and sought after tour is the 3 days and 2 nights done on board a 4×4 vehicle. During the period, the driver guides tourists through the landscapes and tells them a little about the history of the region. Car journeys are long and sometimes a lot of time is spent in the car. There is no road, much less asphalt. So, be prepared: on certain routes (not all) the car really shakes. The best way is to be distracted by the view from the windows, which is always spectacular.
There are private tour options, but the most common are shared tours. Cars generally fit 6 tourists, in addition to the driver. The worst seats are the last two, which are in the trunk. To avoid fights, we rotated the seats.
Attention: unless you travel in a large group or hire a private tour, you will have to share your “adventure” with strangers. So, fingers crossed that you’ll find some cool playmates, since you’ll be together for three whole days.
As incredible as it may seem, there was a baby in our group. That’s right. A cute little baby, just 2 years old. I thought we were going to suffer from the incessant crying. What nothing! She behaved extremely well and even posed for photos like a grown-up.
The cars, in general, are in good condition, but it’s a good idea to check the references of the company hired to avoid the risk of getting a very old car or a crazy driver.
As for luggage, you can carry all your belongings for the tour. They are placed on the roof of the car, covered with a tarpaulin. The advice? Take light luggage and, if possible, go with a backpack, to make it easier to carry. The first accommodation we stayed in was entirely made of salt. And the floor was also made of salt. Those who had suitcases struggled a little to push…
If you have time, I recommend scheduling a tour of the Salar de Uyuni at sunset. It’s too much! I also heard that the night tour to see the stars in the Salar is beautiful. These two tours are usually private.
When to go?
The tour of Salar de Uyuni can be done at any time of the year.
During the rainy season, which runs from December to March, the Salar is flooded and, therefore, you cannot reach certain places, such as Isla Incahuasi and the Tunupa volcano. On the other hand, the water in the Salar creates a spectacular reflection, in which you cannot distinguish what is sky and what is ground.
In winter (June and July), it is very cold. We traveled at the end of March and were already quite cold at night. There was only water in some parts of the Salar, but it was possible to see the reflection.
Which company to hire?
On the main street of Uyuni, there are countless tourist agencies, one next to the other. When walking there, you will certainly be approached by a lot of people offering tours and discounts.
Be careful with the company you choose and, above all, be careful with excessive discounts! Prices that are too low can indicate a bad company that does not take the necessary precautions, and a headache later. We hear reports of crazy drivers who drive at excessive speed and without the necessary care. We also heard stories of cars that broke down in the middle of the desert and tourists had to spend the night in the desert eating bread that the devil had kneaded, suffering from the cold and hunger.
We took the tour at the invitation of the company Late Bolivia and were very satisfied. The 3-day, 2-night Salar de Uyuni and Lagunas tour cost $170 dollars. The price includes shared transport (6 passengers), food and accommodation in basic hostels with shared bathrooms.
What are the accommodations and meals like?
The accommodations are, in general, very simple. The hostels are practically in the middle of nowhere. The external walls are unplastered and, at first, make a terrible impression. Fortunately, the area of the hostels we stayed in was good, mostly tidy and clean. The rooms, bathrooms and dining areas are even shared with other people who are also taking the same tour through other agencies. Talking like that can even sound like a mess. However, things work fine and the experience of cultural exchange and staying overnight in a place of this nature is very interesting.
In our case, the first accommodation had the option of double and triple rooms. There was also hot water for a shower, paid separately.
In the second accommodation, the room was for 10 people and did not have hot water.
Neither of the two accommodations had heating. Therefore, it is a good idea to bring or rent a sleeping bag to avoid getting cold. The sleeping bag is also good to avoid using the bedding that was already provided by the accommodation. Who knows the last time it was washed…
The meals were very satisfying and delicious. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were different and varied on each day. For breakfast there was bread, pancakes, granola, yogurt, eggs and hot drinks. At lunch and dinner there was always meat (red meat or chicken), vegetables, rice or quinoa.
What to take? Write down the tips!
– Due to the altitude, it is possible to suffer from “soroche”, or altitude sickness. The most common symptoms are headache, nausea and vomiting and dizziness. Just in case, drink plenty of water, bring coca leaves to chew and buy “soroche pills”, a medicine that can be purchased at any Bolivian pharmacy, even without a prescription, and which minimizes or prevents the symptoms of “soroche”.
– If you are hungry for a lion, carry some food with you. The tour only includes breakfast, lunch and dinner. Protein bars, fruits and cookies are the best options to eat between meal breaks.
– Always water! There are practically no markets or shops at any point during the 3-day tour, take at least 2 2-liter bottles of water per person.
– Bring toilet paper and wet wipes, they are always necessary. Almost no Bolivian bathroom has toilet paper. And wet wipes are a great help when it comes to taking a “cat bath”, because no one deserves to take a cold shower in the cold!
– When you arrive at the accommodation, run and find a socket to charge your cell phone or camera battery… everyone is desperate because there is a lot to charge and there are few sockets available. One option is to take extra batteries and portable chargers with you on your trip.
– It’s cold in the desert! Renting a sleeping bag is essential for those who don’t want to risk freezing in their accommodation, nor do they want to cover themselves with the sheets that are provided (who knows when they were washed…)
– If you like playing cards, take them. It can be very lively fun for nights in the accommodation, as there is no TV there, much less wifi.
– To look good in photos, use colorful clothes! 😉
* Nós no Mundo traveled through the Salar de Uyuni and Lagunas Coloradas at the invitation of the company Late Bolivia.
Sign up for our newsletter and stay up to date with exclusive news
that can transform your routine!
