The Rosario Islands are an archipelago made up of 27 islands in a region full of corals that, together, form one of Colombia’s 46 environmental protection parks. As the name suggests, Isla Grande is the largest and most important of the Rosário islands. This is where the largest number of hotels and restaurants are concentrated, and also where most of the islands’ native population lives. But don’t expect a metropolis. Even the largest island in the archipelago is still a haven of tranquility, the environment and sand.
How to get to Isla Grande
Speedboats heading to the Rosario Islands leave from La Bodeguita pier, the main port in the old part of Cartagena. Arrive early in the morning and buy a ticket to Isla Grande there. A round-trip ticket costs around 90,000 Colombian pesos (or $34), including port fees. There are daily departures between 8am and 10am, and you can leave to buy on the spot. It is important to tell whoever is driving your boat the name of your hotel on Isla Grande, as there is more than one disembarkation location on the island. Some hotels have their own landing spots on their private beaches. If you go to one of the ecohotels in Orika or in the center of the island, you must get off at the Residents’ Association pier. From there, I recommend negotiating a price with one of the local guides who are lying in wait so that he can take you to the hotel and help you with your luggage on this short walk.
The boat trip lasts between 1 hour and 45 minutes and, depending on the tide, it may not be the most comfortable experience of your life. Don’t forget that the last public boat towards Isla Grande leaves at 10am. If you plan to go after that, you will need to book a private tour.
Read too: What to do in Cartagena de Indias
Where to stay in Cartagena de Indias
To return to Cartagena, you can buy tickets at the reception of your hotel in Isla Grande. Even if you purchased a return ticket, you will need to ask them to call the company to reserve your spot on the next day’s boat.
How to move around Isla Grande
Although it’s not very big – you can do a complete lap of the island in three hours – it’s very easy to get lost on Isla Grande. The trails that lead from one place to another were, in most cases, opened by the population themselves and do not have any sign or indication of where they come from or where they are going. Locals will go out of their way to offer their services as a guide – even if you don’t actually need it.
No matter how friendly they seem at the time of the approach, they will certainly ask for money later. Therefore, if you are going to accept, negotiate the price in advance. You can haggle over the price, but don’t be too stingy: remember that this is a humble population that depends on this and other tourist services. Furthermore, the hotel staff can help with directions and perhaps even accompany you to the place you want to go. Some establishments also offer bicycle rentals and even guided tours on two wheels. But don’t forget that getting lost on the island is an activity in itself, and you don’t know what you’ll find at the end of that trail.
What to do in Isla Grande: attractions and activities
Water sports around the island
The calm waters surrounding Isla Grande are perfect for ocean kayaking, diving and snorkeling. The island is surrounded by corals and emerald-colored natural pools, and these activities are the best way to get in touch with the marine ecosystem that pulses around it. Tours can be booked with agencies in Cartagena de Indias or directly with your hotel in Isla Grande.
Boat trip through the canals with a local guide
The Rosário Islands don’t just live by sea. Part of Isla Grande is covered in small canals and brackish water lagoons. Many of these water paths were opened by the island’s residents over the years and lead deep into the local native forest that preserves countless species of plants and animals. This is an unusual tour on Isla Grande, but it shows a different side of the island. Ask at your hotel for a local guide for the activity. In general, they usually charge a tip, which must be negotiated on a case-by-case basis. This is also a great opportunity to talk more closely with natives of the island and get to know their lifestyle.
Tour of Orika, the local village
Orika is the only town on the island, home to around 800 people. They are descendants of Africans who were enslaved in Colombia and who arrived in the archipelago in search of freedom. The dirt floor, the life that passes slowly and the peaceful, smiling people contrast strongly with the hustle and bustle of the Beach Clubs and resorts. Spending an afternoon wandering the streets, shopping at the fresh fruit stalls and small restaurants serving local food is a great way to get to know the local people.
Visit a drug trafficker’s abandoned mansion (and the public beach in front of it)
A 10-minute walk from Orika, a public beach with turquoise water hides behind a large house, now completely abandoned. In the past, it belonged to a drug trafficker who chose the place as his summer refuge. Since the dismantling of the big cartels in Colombia, however, it has been empty. According to a local guide, today the property belongs to the State, but there is still no plan to put it to social use. At the moment, she remains like this: alone in front of the Caribbean.
Political issues aside, you can stroll through its rooms – carefully – and go up to the second floor to take some photos with a privileged view. The small beach in front is also a great option to sunbathe and cool off without paying beach club fees. You will be, most of the time, alone, except for a family that lives in a much more humble house behind the mansion. Bring drinks and a snack.
View from the top of the abandoned mansion
Spend a day at a beach club
Isla Grande is full of beaches with restricted access by resorts and beach clubs. You have to pay to use the space and have access to that piece of coastline and, as much as I am against this type of tourist exploitation (who are they to say that they own the sea?), it is undeniable that this is one of the most popular among tourists in the Islas del Rosario. Among the most famous is the Gente del Mar resort (the pass costs 199,000 Colombian pesos, or 70 dollars), but there are other more affordable ones spread across the island.
If you prefer a public beach, look for the democratic one Free Beach.
See the phosphorescent plankton at Laguna Encantada
Hidden among the native forest, there is a lagoon full of phytoplankton in the easternmost portion of Isla Grande known as Laguna Encantada. During the day, it looks like an ordinary lagoon, but at night the microorganisms give the impression of a glowing lagoon. In general, the phenomenon begins at sunset, around 6 pm, but the best time to observe bioluminescence phenomena is on darker nights. This can occur due to clouds or the lunar cycle.
Prefer the days of a new moon, the last days of a waning moon or the first days of a waxing moon, and avoid full moons. Check the lunar calendar before you go. It is possible to visit the lagoon without a guide, but as it is a night tour and it is quite easy to get lost on the island, the company of one is highly recommended. Try running your hand across the surface of the water to see a small phosphorescent trail appear.
Sunset dinner at La Pola Restaurant
Located on the seafront, with its own little piece of beach, La Pola is a local restaurant that serves typical Caribbean food made with fresh fish brought by fishermen that day, accompanied by rice, fried plantains, beans and salad. In addition to the well-served and delicious meals, the place also has a great view of the sunset and allows you to use the small beach only in exchange for consumption – unlike beach clubs that charge entry. That’s because the place works well in Pola’s house.
La Pola is known throughout the island and is also the embarkation port for some boats leaving towards Cartagena. So there’s no mistake in getting there: just ask around. This is one of the cheapest places to eat on the island.
Where to stay in Isla Grande
I stayed at an ecohostel located in the village of Orika, in the center of the island, Casa Lola. In addition to being one of the cheapest on the island (US$25 per night for a shared room. The place is super clean and comfortable and the owner, José, is a great cook and prepares delicious dishes for breakfast and dinner (not included).
Those who prefer to stay closer to the beach can take a look at My Casa Nativa, a hostel with a resort feel that has an exclusive beach and promotes activities such as a luau around a bonfire, sightseeing tours and others. The place is so cool that it is the reservation champion on the island.
