As many already know, the Pan-American Road that extends from Alaska in the U.S. to Ushuaia in Argentina, does not exist between the borders of Colombia and Panama, in the so-called Darien strait.
The reasons why the road gets interrupted in this region are many. They say that this is a dense and very mountainous forest region with unstable soil. But I think that in the 21st century when humanity manages to build, for example, a tunnel between the UK and France over the English Channel, I don’t believe that a little bit of bush would be a big problem that modern engineering would not solve.
In my opinion, the problem is drug trafficking.
First it would be difficult to build a road in a region dominated by the Front 57 of the FARCs (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia).
Then imagine: 90% of the cocaine consumed in the US comes from Colombia. It has 4 routes. By the Caribbean Sea, the Pacific, airway or by trails within the forest in the Darien Strait.
Port of Turbo – Colombia.
Imagine if they built a highway connecting the world’s largest cocaine producer with the largest consumer!! Basically they would have to search ALL vehicles that went through this stretch. Even knowing that they would still have to transit through countries in Central America and Mexico, bribing a police officer in this region is not difficult at all.
And why then cross from Colombia to Panama on that route?
First because it is the cheapest way. The others are by plane that will cost you at least about $400 or going by sailboats to stop by some islands. Departing from Cartagena (Check here the 4-day itinerary in Cartagena – the most coveted destination in Colombia of the Laura Lamas blog) and arriving at Cartí leaves for about 450 dollars more the passage from Cartí to the city of Panama.
Then the itinerary looks like this:
– Cartagena (Columbia) – Turbo (Colombia) by bus
– Turbo (Columbia) – Capurgana (Colombia) by boat
– Capurgana (Colombia) – Puerto Obaldia (Panama) by boat
– Puerto Obaldia (Panama) – Panama City by plane
First of all you have to buy your flight from Puerto Obaldia to Panama City. That’s because there’s a single company that makes this route (Air Panama) with small planes, so they fill up fast. Ideally, you can buy the ticket at least 1 month in advance. I paid 93.42 dollars that gives about 178,300 COPs with 14 kilos dispatched and around 3 kilos with you on the plane. The surplus costs $1.25 per kilo. The site is: https://www.airPanamá.com/
- Start of the journey (Cartagena to Turbo by bus).
Well, first you need to take a bus from Cartagena to Turbo in Colombia from where you will take the boat.
When I made this trip I paid 65,000 COPs leaving at 06:30 AM and arriving in Turbo around 04:00 PM. As the boats to Capurgana only leave in the morning, you will have to spend a night in Turbo. A little hotel half a mouth goes out for about 20,000 COPs. It seems that now there is 75,000 COP, depending on the negotiation.
- Turbo to the boat capurganna.
The next day you will take the boat to Capurgana, which is the last village with minimal structure before Panama. He leaves around 8:30 AM and arrives there at 12:00 PM. Try to buy the ticket the day before to secure your place. Expect to pay 55,000 COPs plus 650 COPs per kilogram of luggage exceeding 14 kilos.
Entrance to the Port
Colombian soldiers in the port of Turbo
TIP: In the port itself you can buy those large garbage bags to wrap the bags, thus preventing them from getting wet. Each bag comes out for 1,000 COPs and you can put a backpack of about 80 liters inside.
Arriving in Capurgana, the ideal is that you look for a place to sleep. I stayed at Marlin Hostel and paid 10,000 COPs for a room with my girlfriend. It is about 3 minutes from the port, just ask that everyone knows you can try to take a boat on the same day to Puerto Obaldia in Panama. I find this option risky because it is not sure that boats leave in the afternoon and you have to arrive in Puerto Obaldia before 04:00 PM otherwise the immigration will be closed and you will not be able to enter Panama).
Another alternative is to stay in Capurgana for a few days because it is a very cool place to explore as the beach of Mel, waterfalls, Sapzurro and other places. Anyway, when you get off the boat, there will be a lot of people offering you accommodation and tours.
- Waterturgy to Puerto Obaldia by boat.
Well, following the original itinerary, after finding your hostel, confirm at what time the boat leaves to Puerto Obaldia the next day and already try to buy the ticket the day before so as not to lose the place.
The trip went for 25,000 COPs with 10 kg of luggage included 500 COPs per kg. The boat allegedly departs at 08:00 AM and arrives in Puerto Obaldia at 08:45 AM.
Then go to immigration (it’s just ask that everyone knows where it is) so that they leave Colombia in their passport.
As I said, there are some things to do in Capurgana enjoying your time there, like diving, going to waterfalls and just relaxing on the beach. You can also visit a former plane of traffickers (disguised as the official UN plane) who was summoned by the air force to land in Capurgana.
The next day be in port one half an hour before the combined for exit of the boat. You can reuse the trash bags you bought in Turbo to protect your luggage.
After this short trip, you arrive in Puerto Obaldia straight to an army barracks. In my case, the boat was greeted by a beautiful Panamanian lieutenant.
All passengers go into the barracks where their bags will be searched and subjected to a sniffer dog. So think hard if you really want to take some “memories” from Colombia.
After the magazine, everyone is referred to the Panamanian Immigration for a minute from the barracks.
WASTAO!!! I’ve been through a lot of immigration in this life. That was undoubtedly the worst of all, with the immigration officer most “born of a lady who provided sexual favors in exchange for financial assets.”…not to say anything else.
The guy is very boring, likes to humiliate people and make fun of him friends from immigration.
The Panamanian Headquarters in Puerto Obaldia
First, he will ask you to take 2 xerox from the main page of your passport. If you already have them, better, otherwise they will show you a nearby internet house where you can do it.
Then he will ask for the following documents….it is better that you have them:
–Passport with space for stamping (I got sick of it and had to go back to Colombia, I explain better in a future blog post);
– The two xerox;
-Copy of the confirmed plane ticket from Puerto Obaldia (I don’t know how it works if you are taking the boat to Cartí-Passage from Panama);
Proof of yellow fever vaccine;
Checking for drugs
If you are North American or European, you will have to show a credit card or $500 in cash to prove that you can support yourself in Panama;
If you are not North American or European you will have to have the $500 anyway or beg him to accept your international credit card.
– Much patience!!
Once all this is done, you are officially on Panamanian soil.
- Puerto Obaldia to Panama City by plane.
Accommodation options in Puerto Obaldia are somewhat limited. I stayed in an inn almost in front of Immigration paying 12,000 COPs for me and my girlfriend. Extremant luxurious by signal…. only had electricity between 06:00 PM and 09:00 AM (i.e. no fan in a scorching heat) and the bath was in the bucket!! Nothing ideal for the most demanding souls.
You can visit the airport to spend time.
Basically there is nothing much to do in Puerto Obaldia. The village is another military outpost to guard the border with Colombia. There are guard posts at both ends of the beach and the soldiers are emphatic when they say that you can not walk beyond their field of view. The same goes for the little mountain behind that I wanted to climb. There’s a military outpost there too…
ocê can visit the airport to spend time)
Food options are limited to chicken with rice (for a period of time) but I recommend the smoothie shake (kind of smoothie) of fruits, milk and ice that is sold next to where the xerox is taken. With the heat that does there, this shake is almost equivalent to an orgasm…
“Office” of AirPanama
In front of the xerox there is the Air Panama store. Come on and confirm what time, on the day of your flight, you must get there to make your weigh-in and suitcase. That’s because for small plane, all weight counts. As the AirPanama website did not mention this detail, me and my girlfriend were waiting that even tachos at the airport since 06:00 AM, only to then appear a good soul that warned us about the weigh-in.
(A note about the boat from Puerto Obaldia to Cartí. In addition to being as expensive or more than the plane – 120 dollars more an extra per kilogram of luggage – sailing 8 hours in a small boat where you can’t do anything is a challenge for the sanity of anyone. The other problem is that you will reach Cartí on the Pacific coast of Panama and you should still organize your trip to Panama City).
Calm….the pilgrimage is almost over. On the day of your flight, go to the Air Panama store for the pasing. Stay around and they will warn you when the plane left Panama City so you can go to the airport. Unfortunately, due to a time issue (?), our flight was 5 hours late. We were even more confused because the offices only opened 2 hours after the scheduled time for our flight, so keep an eye out…
Getting there will be a little more magazine by the army and you can board.
After an hour of flight, arriving in Panama City, prepare your patience a little more. Everyone who was on the flight will be interrogated by the Panamanian police (one by one, alone with the interrogator) and only after ALL are finished will you be released. Remembering that you will arrive at Albrook airport, which is the airport in downtown Panama and serves only domestic flights.
TIP: There is a tourist information center within the airport. Obviously he will try to indicate you to take a taxi, but ask him how to take the bus that goes to the Albrook terminal where you will buy a transport card and from there you can take another bus to anywhere in Panama City.
Well, adding everything we have:
– Cartagena – Bus Turbo: 65,000 COPs (perhaps now 75,000 COP, have to negotiate!)
– Turbo — Boat Capurgana: 55,000 COPs (with 14 kilograms only luggage) (same thing here, it seems that now is 60,000 COP)
– Capurgana – Puerto Obaldia by boat: 25,000 COPs (with 14 kilograms only luggage)
– Puerto Obaldia – Panama City by plane: 178,300 COPs (with 14 kilos only luggage + 3)
– Hotel in Turbo: 10,000 COPs
– Hostel in Capurgana: 10,000 COPs
COPs
– Hotel in Puerto Obaldia: 12,000 COPs
Total: 355,300 COPs, around 150 dollars. Good economy out the look and adventure!!
The price at COP and the dollar quotation were valid for August 2013. Check current prices.
EXTRA ATTENTION: When I made this crossing in August 2013, making the conversion of the season, the total of the trip was about 200 dollars. As the value of the dollar has greatly increased relative to the COP, currently (January 2014) the total value of this trip gives about 150 dollars. So it is quite possible that some of the COP values I mentioned above have increased. Improve take some extra money just for guarantee.
City of Panama
Tours, attractions and activities in Panama
If you are planning your trip to Panama, don’t miss the amazing attractions this destination has to offer. In GetYourGuide and Viator you can find several attractions for all tastes, and pockets! Check it out:
