What to do, where to eat, how to get there and itinerary

All I had to do was go up to the hotel terrace for me to understand why Puebla deserves a place on the itinerary of every tourist passing through Mexico. On one side and nearby, watching over life in colonial mansions, was the Cathedral, with gigantic towers that were once the largest in the New World – so huge that, legend has it and local faith guarantees, it was angels who were in charge of take the gigantic bell to the bell tower. On the opposite side, partially covered by the typical late afternoon clouds, appeared Popocatépetl, an active volcano.

With almost 500 years of history and just a two-hour drive from Mexico City, Puebla is the best-known colonial city in the country, with a historic center declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco. There are 2,619 secular buildings, including more than 20 churches and temples, 60 public buildings, including the Biblioteca Palafoxiana, which was the first in the Americas, and hundreds of mansions. As if all this were not enough, Puebla is also a university city, with streets full of interesting bars and restaurants.

Mexico City launched the trend, and all because of a project that never happened, but today every self-respecting Mexican city has a Zócalo to call its own. The expression of Italian origin is used to name the main square of a city – what the Spanish called Plaza de Armas. In Puebla it is no different. The Zócalo is the heart of the city and home to the cathedral and some of the most important buildings, such as the Cabildo, the city hall.

The square was an open-air market for almost three centuries, until it gained its current format in 1854. All of Puebla’s most important events took place there. This included trials, punishments and even executions – many people saw their lives end on a gallows that was placed in the middle of the Zócalo.

Puebla has at least one good museum, the Amparo, but I confess we didn’t even go through the door. The fun of the city seems to be more in the streets, in walking aimlessly between mansions and watching life go by on benches in the squares, than within four walls. Avenida 5 de Mayo, a pedestrian street – for pedestrians only – is a good starting point to begin your journey around the city. Don’t forget to also stop by Plazuela de los Sapos, a square where an antiques fair takes place on weekends.

In addition to the Cathedral, another church worth visiting is the Capilla del Rosario. When you enter, look up – the temple’s dome is one of the most beautiful in Mexico. The Churches of Santo Domingo and Tonantzintla complete the list of the most important, even if just for knocking cards at the door.

And make no mistake: despite the interior climate, Puebla is a large city, the fourth largest in Mexico, with almost three million inhabitants in its metropolitan region. It is the capital of the state of the same name. There are many attractions outside the historic center or in the surrounding area, such as waterfalls, pre-Columbian and Spanish ruins, museums, parks, squares and even a cable car. I preferred to leave all of this out of the itinerary and spend my time walking along streets where five centuries have already passed. I don’t regret the choice.

Where to eat in Puebla

You can’t talk about Puebla and not think about food. Many of the tourists who choose to go there, taking a few days off from the itinerary of peaceful leisure on the most famous beaches in the Mexican Caribbean, do so to satisfy their hunger and, not so slowly, they allow themselves to gain weight.

It was no different for me. As soon as we arrived in Puebla and dropped our bags at the hotel, we headed to the first restaurant of the trip, Fonda la Mexicana. The request? Mixiote, a dish of steamed beef wrapped in maguey leaf skin, a symbolic plant of Mexico that is used in the production of tequila.

The detail is that this is not even one of the dishes that Puebla cuisine is known for. Mole Poblano is considered the Mexican dish par excellence, the food that has been tried by practically everyone in the country. Served at all Mexican festivals, from birthdays to weddings and even Christmas, mole is the sauce used to serve alongside chicken or turkey. It contains tomatoes, fried bananas, peanuts, coriander, cinnamon, pepper and – that’s the recipe’s secret – chocolate. As the name suggests, the dish originates from Puebla, where another very traditional Mexican recipe was born, chiles en nogada.

Other interesting restaurants (which we tested) are El Mural de los Poblanos and La Casa del Mendrugo, both in the historic center. The food at Nevados, which is located in the Zócalo, isn’t that great, but the place is really worth it for the view of the Cathedral.

See too: Mexican food and typical dishes from the country

How to get to Puebla

It takes 2h30 from Mexico City and the easiest way to get to Puebla is by bus. Vehicles depart from the Oriente Autobuses Terminal, TAPO, which is close to the San Lazaro Metro station, on Line 1 Pink. I didn’t buy the tickets to Puebla in advance. All you had to do was go to the ADO counter and buy tickets for the next bus, but it may be worth buying in advance if you plan to go during holidays or festive dates. The ticket costs around 150 pesos (R$30). You will get off at Puebla Bus Station and from there you will have to take a bus, taxi or Uber to get to the historic center.

Accommodation in Puebla

Accommodation in Puebla is significantly cheaper than in Mexico City. I stayed at the Hotel Gala, which is one block from the Zócalo and is housed in a beautiful colonial mansion. The view from the terrace, where breakfast is served and there is also a bar, is worth the price alone. Another very good option – and with an even better view – is Casa Rosa Gran Hotel Boutique.

See too: Where to stay in Puebla, Mexico, neighborhood by neighborhood

Day trip to Cholula

A twenty-minute drive separates Puebla from another city that deserves at least a quick visit, although I recommend that you stay there for a night. It’s Cholula, where you’ll also find colorful houses, spread across a smaller but no less impressive historic center. As a bonus, in Cholula you will be at the foot of the Popocatépetl and the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, which together form one of the best-known postcards in Mexico.

Foto:  Cristobal Garciaferro/ Shutterstock

Getting to Cholula from Puebla is easy and you can even go by city bus, with tickets costing 6 pesos (less than R$2). Several lines make the route, so it’s best to ask your hotel reception which option is best for you.

There is also a tourist train connecting the two cities and which takes 40 minutes. Boarding in Puebla is at the Railway Terminal (11 Norte y Esq. 18 Poniente), while in Cholula the station is at the foot of the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remédios, close to all the attractions. There are three or four departures per day in each direction and the ticket costs 60 pesos (about R$12). Finally, you can get there and back by Uber. The race costs around 100 pesos (R$20). It is the most practical method, especially for those traveling in groups.

If it’s not possible to spend at least one night in Cholula – they say the city’s bars are an attraction in themselves – go on a day trip. We left Puebla early to be able to see Popocatépetl without it being covered by clouds. We visited the city’s attractions and then had lunch at the Cholula market, then returned to Puebla.

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