The largest pyramid in the world spent four centuries pretending to be a mountain. The disguise was so good that Hernán Cortés, the Spaniard who with his armies conquered the people who lived in Mexico, didn’t notice it – the conquerors limited themselves to building a Catholic temple on top of the pyramid, that is, the mountain. It was in 1910, during construction work at the site, that the Great Pyramid of Cholula was rediscovered.
And go big on it. It is 66 meters high and 450 meters long, figures that form a structure larger in volume than that of the Pyramid of Giza, in Egypt. Furthermore: according to the BBC, this is the “largest monument ever built anywhere, by any civilization, to this day”. The pyramid began to be built 200 years before Christ, but reached its maximum size close to the eighth century AD.
When the Spanish arrived there, Cholula had around 100,000 inhabitants, which formed the second largest urban center in this part of the New World, behind only Tenochtitlán, the capital of the Aztecs and which ended up becoming Mexico City. Cholula had more temples than days in the year, some researchers guarantee: the Spanish conquerors estimated that the number reached more than 400!
Excavated part of the Cholula pyramid
The arrival of the invaders brought massacre. It was October 1519 when Hernán Cortés and his men were welcomed in Cholula by unarmed residents. The Spanish accused the city of conspiracy – a fabricated statement to justify the attack – and killed thousands of people in three hours. Temples were destroyed, including several pyramids that were not disguised as mounds, and the second most powerful city in the region fell, without the luxury of a chance to defend itself. The message was clear and hastened the downfall of the Aztecs, accomplished two years later, with the conquest of Tenochtitlán.
Cortés, who reportedly said that Cholula was the most beautiful city outside of Spain, ordered its reconstruction, with the transformation of pre-Columbian temples into Catholic churches. Today, Cholula, which is actually made up of two twin, conurbated cities – San Andrés Cholula and San Pedro Cholula – houses at least forty large churches, in addition to a hundred smaller chapels.
Each of the 18 neighborhoods of the two Cholulas has its patron saint. Museums, streets of colorful houses, mansions and colonial buildings complete the list of attractions in a region that is just 120 kilometers from Mexico City and less than 10 from Puebla. Together, the two Cholulas have the title of Pueblo Mágico of Mexico, the name given to a group of special cities that receive protection and greater prominence by the Secretariat of Tourism.
Cholula, with volcano in the background, seen from the pyramid
The short distance makes Cholula a typical day trip destination, whether starting from Mexico City, on a trip that also includes a quick visit to Puebla, or using Puebla as a base to get to know Cholula in one morning. That’s what I did: we spent a day in Puebla, slept in the city and woke up early the next day to visit Cholula. After the tour, we returned to Mexico City.
As much as it is possible to get to know the basics of Cholula in that time, I am convinced that the ideal is to spend at least two nights in the region, half of the time in Puebla and the other half in Cholula, which is home to the Universidad de las Américas. Students ensure that a city that has been inhabited for centuries has a youthful atmosphere and lively nightlife, to the point of attracting residents of Puebla. Those who visit Cholula on a day trip leave when the bars start to open.
See too: Puebla, colonial mansions and the best of Mexican food
Where to Stay in Puebla and Cholula, Mexico
Mexican food: typical dishes of the country
What to do in Cholula
The Great Pyramid of Cholula is also called Tlachihualteptl, a word from the Cholultec people that means “mountain made by men”. At the top of it has been the Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, patron saint of Cholula, for four hundred years.
Pyramid, church and volcano, Popocatepetl, form one of Mexico’s best-known postcards, the main image used by the government to promote this part of the country. As the pyramid structure still looks like a hill and has never been fully excavated, as the church at its top prevents this, many tourists arrive at the site without knowing about its great pre-Columbian past.
Sanctuary, which is at the top of the pyramid (Photo: Cristobal Garciaferro, Shutterstock)
The two unmissable tours involve Cholula’s most important landmark and can be done in a few hours. First, climb the stairs to the Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. The view of the city and the surrounding area is worth the effort – on clear days you will see the city surrounded by four volcanoes, Popocatepetl, Iztaccíhuatl, Malinche and Pico de Orizaba. The city, with its colorful houses and several temples, is another attractive sight. Entry is free.
The Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios has been destroyed a few times, by earthquakes and lightning. The 2017 tremor toppled the temple’s towers, as shown in a bizarre selfie video taken by a tourist who was there at the time of the earthquake.
When you get tired of the view, go down the stairs and look for the entrance to the Pyramid. You will go through a long, dark tunnel until you reach the archaeological site, which was excavated from the beginning of the 20th century. Entrance costs 70 pesos and the site is open every day, from 9am to 6pm. Each year, the Church and Pyramid receive at least 220 thousand visitors. The busiest month is September, when the feast of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios takes place.
Afterwards, it’s time to walk through the city of colorful houses. Follow Avenida Morelos to Plaza de la Concordia, the Zócalo de Cholula. There are 46 porticos, built from 1573 onwards, in addition to the Parish of São Pedro.
Just follow the same street to find the Municipal Market, one of the most interesting I’ve seen in Mexico. If you pass by, try the blue tortilla that contains calcium oxide, lime, used in painting houses and in the production of mortar.
The Iglesia de Santa Maria Tonanzintla, the Templo San Francisco Acatepec, the Former Convent of San Gabriel, built on the site where the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, the city’s main temple, once stood, are other attractions. After walking aimlessly, look for a bar with a terrace, order a drink and watch the day end, coloring the city’s many temples orange.
How to get there and accommodation tips
Getting to Cholula from Puebla is easy and you can go by city bus, with tickets costing six pesos (less than R$2). Several lines make the route. Ask at the hotel reception which option is best for you.
Another alternative is a tourist train connecting the two cities, which takes 40 minutes. Boarding in Puebla is at the Railway Terminal (11 Norte y Esq. 18 Poniente), while in Cholula the station is at the foot of the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remédios. There are three or four departures per day in each direction and the ticket costs 60 pesos (about R$12). Finally, you can get there and back by Uber or Cabify. The race costs around 100 pesos (R$20). It is the most practical method, especially for those traveling in groups or who have little time available.
If you decide to spend a night in Cholula, stay close to the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. There, two good options are Estrella de Belem and Xoxula by Inmense.
