The beaches of Cancún and company reign so supremely on the Mexican tourism scene that we even forget that Mexico has another coast full of little paradises to discover. But the Pacific is there, still little explored by mass tourism, with low prices, beautiful beaches and the authentic atmosphere of small coastal towns that have not yet been dominated by resorts. all included for foreigners. Puerto Escondido, a small town of 45 thousand inhabitants located in the state of Oaxaca, is one of these places.
Very famous among backpackers, hippies, surfers and, for some reason that still remains a mystery to me, Australians, Puerto Escondido has everything we could dream of for the perfect vacation: stunning landscapes, blue sea, year-round heat, beautiful hotels with low prices and warm water (contrary to the bad reputation of the ocean that bathes it). It’s like Maresias, but without the São Paulo dollars and with all-you-can-eat Mexican food. In recent years, it has gained fame on the international scene for being voted one of the best surfing destinations on the planet. But don’t be alarmed if you, like me, have never even picked up a board! Alongside the perfect waves, there are beaches that look more like a swimming pool, perfect for taking a dip and forgetting about life.
Best time to travel to Puerto Escondido
Contrary to common sense, Puerto Escondido is not a beach to visit in the summer. This is because the months of May, June, July and August are so hot that, instead of attracting, they end up scaring everyone away. This is also the time with the most rain throughout the year. The good news is that, the rest of the time, the temperatures there remain high, without feeling like the branch of hell itself. Even in winter, temperatures can exceed 30 °C and the minimum temperature is always above 20 °C. The “coldest” month is December, with an average temperature of 26°C, and the hottest is May, with an average of 29°C.
How to get to and around Puerto Escondido
I don’t know if you’ve ever traveled through Mexico, but it’s amazing how it seems that, to get anywhere, you have to take many hours on a bus. Puerto Escondido is 250 km from the state capital, Oaxaca de Juaréz, but the bus journey takes 10 hours. The advantage is the price: you can find tickets there for around 400 Mexican pesos (R$80) through the company ADO.
Leaving Mexico City, the journey is longer and more tiring: it takes around 17 hours by bus, also operated by ADO for from 650 pesos (R$ 130). In both cases, the trip ends at Puerto Escondido Central Bus Station. From there, you can take a taxi at the door for a maximum of 35 pesos (R$7) for hotels in the center and 50 pesos for hotels on the beaches (R$10).
It is also possible to reach Puerto Escondido by plane, landing at Puerto Escondido International Airport. Flights leaving from Mexico City or Oaxaca cost between 1000 and 2000 pesos (between R$200 and R$400) and are operated by Viva Aerobus, Interjet and Aeromar. A taxi from the airport should cost less than 200 pesos (R$40), but there are also transfer services that can be even cheaper.
To get around Porto Escondido, you can walk to the more central beaches, but to visit the more distant ones, taxis are the best option, as they are not expensive at all. Many hotels also offer bicycle rental, another good transportation alternative in the city. Those who want to go further afield can consider renting a car. See how to rent a car in Mexico at a discount.
The beaches you need to visit in Puerto Escondido
Zicatela Beach
Puerto Escondido owes its fame in the world of surfing to this beach. There the waves can reach 12 meters in height and provide perfect conditions for practicing the sport. But this does not mean that it is contraindicated for mere mortals. The waves are already very gentle when they reach the beach, allowing for calm diving. Zicatela is the longest beach in the center of Puerto Escondido and has a promenade full of good bars and restaurants that serve the best coastal food in the region. There are several shops specializing in surfing near the beach. You can rent (10 dollars) or buy (250 dollars) your surfboard, as well as sign up for surf classes and related tours.
Carrizalillo Beach
Carrizalillo is one of those postcards made to make us fall in love with a place. To get there, you have to descend a wooden staircase with 167 steps built into the rocky slope that isolates the beach from the rest of the world. With each step, the landscape reveals itself to you below and becomes even more beautiful at sunset. Carrizalillo is small, quiet and has one of the best seas in the region for swimmers, as well as being, in my opinion, the most beautiful. The kiosks there usually charge minimum consumption, which is not advantageous for those traveling alone, as the quota does not change with the number of customers. Still, it’s worth spending at least a few hours there.
Praia Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito
There are two small beaches next to each other, with calm, warm and transparent waters, which vary between shades of green and blue. Therefore, it is popular with families with children, snorkelers and those looking for a quieter place, away from the hustle and bustle of the more popular beaches. The kiosks there are simpler and generally cheaper than in Carrizalillo and Zicatela, which also attracts more Mexicans than foreigners, stripping the place of the hyped atmosphere that surrounds Puerto Escondido. To get there you have to go down a small dirt road.
What to do in Puerto Escondido: other attractions
Visit the magical Manialtepec Lagoon
After the sun sets, the Laguna de Manialtepec emits a strange and fascinating bluish glow. It seems like something from another world, but the phenomenon, known as bioluminescence, is produced by the organisms that inhabit those waters. There are several agencies in Puerto Escondido that sell night trips to the Laguna by speedboat or kayak. But be aware: although tours take place every week, the best time to observe bioluminescence is on full moon nights.
Stroll around El Adoquín
This is the oldest part of Puerto Escondido and the main commercial thoroughfare. It is located next to the main bay and is home to craft shops, bars, snack bars, cafes, pharmacies and other establishments. It’s worth taking a walk around and taking a souvenir or two home.
Help rescue turtles in Mazunte
Mazunte is a fishing community located 55 km from Puerto Escondido. It is known for being a breeding site for turtles. In the past, predatory fishing almost extinguished the animals, but today the region has a powerful protection program by the Centro Mexicano de la Tortuga. It is possible to take a trip there to observe the volunteers’ work, help release the sea turtles and learn more about them, in addition to enjoying the beach.
sports
In addition to surfing, Puerto Escondido is also the perfect place for snorkeling, paddle boarding, diving and other water sports. Activities can be booked directly at the hostel or at agencies close to Zicatela and Carrizallilo.
Night life
The presence of so many young backpackers and surfers could only be manifested in the existence of a vibrant local nightlife. The El Aldoquín region is buzzing at any time of the day, but at night the street is closed to cars and the bars host live music performances. The seaside restaurants also offer a lot of reggaeton until the early hours of the morning, but there are also quieter bars and restaurants for those who want to escape the hustle and bustle without wasting their nights.
Where to stay in Puerto Escondido: hotel and region tips
I stayed at Puerto Dreams Hostel, one of those backpacker’s dream hostels. Good rooms, top-notch cleanliness, several free activities, such as group dinners and yoga classes, free loaner bicycles, quality wifi, travelers from all over the world, beautiful and functional common areas, breakfast included and a bar that guarantees beer at the end of the day for fair prices. The only problem was the location: Puerto Dreams is in the center of Puerto Escondido, which means a 10 or 15 minute walk to the nearest beach. As taxis there are very cheap and the hostel provides bicycles, this isn’t a problem. Shared rooms cost 179 pesos (R$36), and private rooms cost 560 (R$112).
For those who want to stay close to the beach, a good option is to look for accommodation in the Zicatela region or choose one of the many hotels on Carizallilo beach. Another alternative close to the ocean and very convenient is El Aldoquín.
Puerto Escondido is a great destination for those who want (and deserve) a luxurious vacation without spending a lot. A night at a four-star hotel there can cost from $100.
