Mandelic acid: what it is for and how to use it

Mandelic acid is a product used to combat wrinkles and expression lines, and is recommended for use in the form of a cream, oil or serum, which must be applied directly to the face.

This type of acid is derived from bitter almonds and is especially recommended for people with sensitive skin, as it is more slowly absorbed by the skin due to the fact that it is a larger molecule.

What is Mandelic Acid for?

Mandelic acid has a moisturizing, whitening, antibacterial and fungicidal action, and is recommended for acne-prone skin or small dark spots. In this way, mandelic acid can be used to:

• Lighten dark spots on the skin;
• Deeply hydrate the skin;
• Combat blackheads and pimples, improving skin uniformity;
• Combat signs of aging, such as wrinkles and expression lines;
• Renew cells because it eliminates dead cells;
• Help in the treatment of stretch marks.

Mandelic acid is ideal for dry skin intolerant to glycolic acid, but it can be used on all skin types as it is much milder than other alpha hydroxy acids (AHA). Furthermore, this acid can be used on light, dark, mulatto and black skin, and before or after peeling or laser surgery.

Mandelic acid is normally found in formulations between 1 and 10%, and can be found combined with other substances, such as hyaluronic acid, Aloe vera or rosehip. For professional use, mandelic acid can be sold in concentrations ranging between 30 and 50%, which are used for deep peeling.

How to use

It is recommended to apply daily to the skin of the face, neck and chest, at night, keeping away from the eyes. You should wash your face, dry it and wait about 20-30 minutes to apply the acid to the skin, so as not to cause irritation. To start using it, apply it 2 to 3 times a week in the first month and after that period it can be used daily.

If there are signs of skin irritation, such as itching or redness, or watery eyes, it is recommended to wash your face and only apply again if diluted in another oil or a little moisturizing cream until the skin is able to tolerate it.

In the morning, you should wash your face, dry it and always apply a moisturizing cream that includes sunscreen. Some brands that sell mandelic acid in the form of a cream, serum, oil or gel are Sesderma, The Ordinary, Adcos and Vichy.

Before applying the product to your face, you should test it on your arm, in the region close to the elbow, placing a small amount and observing the area for 24 hours. If signs of skin irritation appear, such as itching or redness, the area should be washed with warm water and this product should not be applied to the face.

When not to use

It is not recommended to use products containing mandelic acid during the day and it is also not recommended to use them for a long time because it may have a rebound effect and the appearance of dark spots on the face. Understand what the rebound effect is.

It is also not recommended to use in case of:

• Pregnancy or breastfeeding;
• Injured skin;
• Active herpes;
• After waxing;
• Sensitivity to touch test;
• Use of tretinoin;
• Tanned skin;

Products containing mandelic acid should not be used at the same time as other acids, not even during chemical peeling treatment, where other acids are used in high concentrations to peel the skin, promoting total skin regeneration. During this type of treatment, it is best to use only moisturizing creams and lotions.