After Mérida, the big city, I was back in a smaller, colonial city with colorful low houses and a calmer pace. I was in San Cristóbal de Las Casas. A beautiful Pueblo Mágico that already attracts attention due to its name. “las Casas” was added in honor of the bishop who defended the indigenous people of the region.
The city is in the Mexican state of Chiapas, surrounded by mountains and is above 2000 meters of altitude. I went in April/19 and the cold weather was very pleasant, making me forget the heat of the previous city. It’s not completely flat, but it didn’t stop me from doing what I like when I arrive in a city, walking.
The tourist vocation of San Cristóbal de las Casas is visible. Many, many different foreigners share space on the streets with Mayan descendants who sell handicrafts. There is a large indigenous population in the region and selling their work to tourists helps (or is) their livelihood. And to cater to visitors, the city has bars, restaurants, shops and cafes everywhere. San Cristóbal is also known for its good coffee.
San Cristóbal de las Casas is to be visited on foot. But don’t limit yourself to the center, as the city is full of interesting places, fairs and markets. They have many markets for the size of the city. And as you move away from the center you will see fewer tourists and more natives.
I planned 3 days in San Cristóbal de las Casas. The first one I left to get to know the city, the other two I took recommended tours in the region and enjoyed the end of the day in San Cristóbal.
>> Check out my travel itinerary.
>> Read all posts about Mexico.
San Cristóbal Mártin Cathedral
From the Zócalo (main square) in the historic center you get to know San Cristóbal de Las Casas. In it is the San Cristóbal Museum with a large courtyard behind it. There is also the San Cristóbal Mártin Cathedral which faces the Plaza de la Paz, which like the Zócalo is always busy. They always have some display of local culture.
In the Zócalo, the Calle Real de Guadalupe, a concentration of bars, restaurants, cafes, tourist agencies and it is always busy. If you prefer places frequented more by locals, stay away from the beginning. This street is the main access to the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. From the street you can already see the church at the top of the hill with a view of the city. And if it’s a religious date, there will be something to see nearby.
Also leaving the Zócalo is the Cale Miguel Hildago, another pedestrian street busy with its bars and restaurants. At the end of it there was a typical food fair, highlighting the sweets. San Cristóbal is known for its sweets. Also through this street you can reach Church of San Cristobalito. Get ready to go up again as it’s another place where you can see the city from above.
Walk from the Zócalo along November 20th Ave and will arrive at Mexican neighborhood. It’s where the natives live. The buildings are not so beautiful and well-preserved, there are a lot of popular shops with stalls and markets. People and vans mingle in the narrowest streets. If tourists are the majority in the historic center, there it is the natives who stand out for the sound of their dialects and their typical costumes that they actually wear on a daily basis and not just for tourists to see.
Next to him is the El Cerrillo neighborhood. An intermediate neighborhood with natives and housing like the Mexican ones and with options for tourists like the Historic Center, but with less movement.
3 blocks from the Zócalo, on Av Insurgentes, is the Sweets and Crafts Market. In San Cristóbal there is a tradition of sweets and in addition to being found in various places in the city, there is a specific market for them. In fact, I saw many markets and fairs in the city. I even saw one that practically hid the Church and Convent of San Domingos in the Mexican neighborhood.
Candy market
San Cristóbal de las Casas has many colonial churches. The city has many religious traditions. There are also museums, but I wasn’t able to visit many churches and museums. I traveled in April last year and they were closed or under construction.
But I had no problem with that, as the city is interesting in itself. Walk without that worry, don’t get caught up in the list of places to visit and if you need to stop along the way, stop. Suddenly you find a good cafe, a beautiful church, handicrafts, and before you know it you’ll be standing there watching a performance in the square or eating a grasshopper offered by the countless street vendors. And if you pass by a bar frequented by locals, go in, drink and watch.
The Sumidero Canyon
On my second day I went on one of the most recommended tours: Cañon del Sumidero. A large canyon formed by walls that reach 1000m high bordering the Grijalva River. The best part of the tour is sailing along the river between the walls. Then there are stops at viewpoints at the top of the canyon. On the return there is a quick stop in the city of Chiapa de Corzo.
The Cañon del Sumidero is not in San Cristóbal de las Casas. Local agencies sell the transport tour and the boat trip. In April/19 I paid 390 pesos (R$86.50), from what I researched it is cheaper to go with agencies than on my own. I left around 9 am and returned at 3 pm, arriving before the time informed by the agency, but it was good that I was able to enjoy the late afternoon in the city.
The tour is worth it through the canyon. Don’t create expectations for the rest that is offered. The stop in the city of Chiapa de Corzo was quick (15 minutes), leaving no time to do anything, therefore unnecessary. Didn’t have time for lunch, so take what to eat. The boat is open, be careful with the sun. Ride the van for a while.
San Juan de Chamula
An autonomous municipality where the indigenous population predominates with their customs, traditions and beliefs. What draws the most attention and attracts curious tourists is the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, or rather, the non-Catholic rituals that take place inside it. From the outside it is a church like any other.
Chamula is 10km from San Cristóbal and you don’t necessarily need to go with an agency. Just go to Calle Honduras in Bairro de Mexicanos and take a van that will drop you off in the center. I did this on the third day. I went first thing in the morning, paid 18 pesos (R$4.00) in April/19 each trip and another 25 pesos to enter the church. I spent practically the entire time inside the church watching what was happening there. It was the most impressive thing I saw in Mexico.
Mayan city of Palenque
Another popular tour for those visiting San Cristóbal is to see the ruins of the Mayan city of Palenque. It really is impressive and well worth seeing. From San Cristóbal you can take a day trip to see the ruins and two other attractions. It is a 5 hour journey, so the vans leave at 4 am and return after 10 pm. This way seems to be quite tiring.
You can also go this way, but not return to San Cristóbal, staying in the city of Palenque to continue your itinerary. It is very common for people to stay at the city bus station after the tour. Another way to get to know Palenque is to go by bus and take the tours there. The bus trip is longer because it takes a different route than the vans. In addition to being more expensive.
I did the route in the opposite direction. I was in Mérida, I went by bus to Palenque and there I booked the tour that would eventually take me to San Cristóbal de Las Casas, arriving on the same day. This is also very common.
Zapatista Snail
At the beginning of the 20th century, the Zapatista Movement, a guerrilla group, emerged in Mexico. But it hasn’t been like that for a long time. Formed mainly by Indians, Mayan descendants. The Movement wants respect. It claims autonomy in its lands with the population’s direct participation in decisions, preserving traditions, customs and living in promoting sharing.
The Movement became better known outside Mexico when in 1994 the Zapatista Army occupied the city of San Cristóbal de Las Casas, among others, demonstrating against the North American free trade agreement. In the province of Chiapas, with the majority of the population made up of Indians, the movement has a lot of strength. The city of San Cristóbal is influenced by the movement, but it is in the nearby region that there are Zapatista territories, such as autonomous municipalities and Caracóis. The latter function as administrative regions of these autonomous territories. In them all service is community, voluntary and the fruits are shared. They also function as a place for communication and dissemination of the movement. They are closed, but you can visit one of them: Caracol Oventic. And it’s not difficult.
How to get to San Cristobal de las Casas
San Cristóbal does not have an airport. The closest is 60km away in the city of Tuxtla Gutiérres, the capital of the State of Chiapas. From the airport to San Cristóbal there is a van.
San Cristóbal can also be reached by bus from several cities. The company that serves is ADO. I wrote a post about how to travel by bus through Mexico.
I arrived neither by plane nor by bus. I was in Paleque, the impressive Mayan city. There, I booked a van tour to see some attractions and then take me to San Cristóbal. Palenque is also in the State of Chiapas and it is common and easy to hire this service.
If you are driving through the region, your problem is solved. But know that you won’t need it in the city. It is possible, and better, to see it on foot. To go to other destinations, you have the option of leaving Brazil with a rented car.
Where to eat
There is à la carte, a buffet where you eat until you can’t eat anymore and have the option of starter, main course and dessert. I looked at all these options and they are everywhere. And the price is not absurd, no. One tip is the Centro Cultural Tierradetro on Rua Real de Guadalupe. Culture and good food in one place.
Tierradentro cultural center
accommodation
There are many Hostels in the city. It is loved by backpackers, but is visited by all types of people. Rest assured because they also have other accommodation options.
I travel on a budget, I stayed at 13 Cielos Hostel. I booked on the Booking website where it is rated as very good, and I really liked it. It operates in a house with a few rooms, the service is very good and it is well located in the historic center. I was alone in a private room with a double bed.
For me, the best place to stay is the historic center. But it would also be in the El Cerrillo neighborhood.
>> Check out my travel itinerary.
>> Read all posts about Mexico.
